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Hawaii and Its Volcanoes by Charles H.
Hitchcock, LL.D. of Dartmouth College
EARTH SCIENCES LIBRARY, COPYRIGHT, 1909 BY THE HAWAIIAN
GAZETTE Co., LTD
PART
2: The History of the Exploration of Mauna Loa
CONTENTS:
Mauna Loa
Early Historic Eruptions
The First Known Attempt to Ascend Mauna Loa
Vancouver's Exploration
Archibald Menzies' Journal
Other Statements
Mokuaweoweo Between 1832 And 1843
The
Wilkes Party Upon Mauna Loa
Eruption of 1843
Mokuaweoweo in 1851
Eruption of 1852
The
Eruption of 1852, described in verse by Titus Coan
Eruption of March, 1852, by J. Fuller
Eruption of 1855
Mauna Loa
This term is applied to an immense dome seventy-four by fifty three
miles in its two diameters as measured at the sea level, and 13,650 feet
in altitude. Its mass extends downwards more than 16,000 feet farther to
the level of the submarine plain at the bottom of the sea upon which the
whole Hawaiian Archipelago is situated. That would be a cone 30,000 feet
in height and as much as a hundred miles wide within which are one or
more conduits leading to the reservoir of lava which supplied the
material for the various eruptions. It is probable that the cone may
rest upon sediments of Tertiary age, like the sister island of Oahu.
The first word is equivalent to Mount, and the second signifies great or
long. Some authors prefer to say Mount Loa rather than Mauna Loa. The
natives call the caldera at the summit Mokuaweoweo. The great dome, so
far as can be judged, is composed of overlapping sheets of basalt, both
aa and pahoehoe. Those at the surface are of known age, or certainly
younger than those that are deep seated. There are no large canyons upon
its surface produced by the erosion of streams, because the deposition
of the sheets is so recent. Above 10,000 feet there is scarcely any
vegetation. The expanse is entirely composed of basalt showing evidences
of many interlacing streams of lava. The surface is nearly level for the
extent of four or five square miles. Mr. Ellis who explored Hawaii in
1823 has nothing to say of Mokuaweoweo, while he writes fully of
Kilauea. Pele is located definitely at Kilauea. I have not yet
discovered any native traditions respecting eruptions from the larger
volcano. It may be that the earlier explorers were not aware of the
character of Mauna Loa. Ellis represents it as covered by snow
throughout the year. It is uninhabitable, and therefore its eruptions
would not usually be fraught with disaster to the inhabitants, and thus
would be scarcely mentioned in the traditions. When Hawai`i shall have
been studied carefully it will be possible to give the sequence of
several pre-historic eruptions. One of these is Keamoku, an expanse on
the north side of the mountain adjacent to and underlying the flow of
1843. The fact that it is distinguished upon the Government map
indicates that the surveyors were impressed by its recency. It starts
from the cone of Kokoolau 8,000 feet high, and terminates at the
altitude of 3,000 feet at the hill whose name is now applied
distinctively to the flow itself. Its area is very much the same with
that of the well known eruption of 1843, extending down hill for
twenty-one miles, the first third of the way proceeding due north, and
then to the northwest. The area of 1843 laps over the edge of Keamoku.
I find very nearly the
same name applied to an aa flow on the opposite side of the mountain,
along which the new Kau Volcano road runs for several miles. This is
supposed to be connected with a broad stream starting just below Puu
Ulaula seven miles east of Mokuaweoweo. Upon most of the maps this
stream is represented to have the date of 1823, and to have been
connected with the discharge from Kilauea of that date, described by Mr.
Ellis. This gentleman, however, makes no allusion to the existence of
any recent stream descending from Puu Ulaula in that year, nor does he
have anything to say about eruptions from Mauna Loa.
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Early Historic Eruptions
The first considerable knowledge of the Hawaiian Islands was acquired by
Captain Cook in 1778-9. From the narrative illustrative of this
expedition I find the following description of the features of a part of
Hawaii, which all who are familiar with the island will recognize as
truthful.
"The 13 coasts of Kaoo present a prospect of the most horrid and dreary
kind, the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from
the effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is everywhere
covered with cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks,
which seem to mark the course of a lava that has flowed, not many ages
back, from the mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks
like the mere dregs of a volcano. The projecting headland is composed of
broken and craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another and
terminating in sharp points."
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The First Known Attempt to Ascend Mauna Loa
John Ledyard, the famous traveler, was one of the seamen of Captain
Cook's party in 1779 when they were anchored off Kealakekua. I will
quote the greater part of his narrative from A Journal of Captain Cook's
last voyage to the Pacific Ocean and in quest of a northwest passage
between Asia and America. Printed and sold by Nathaniel Patton,
Hartford, Conn., 1783,
On the 26th of January I sent a billet on board to Cook, desiring his
permission to make an excursion into the interior parts of the country,
proposing, if practicable, to reach the famous peak that terminated the
height of the island. My proposal was not only granted, but promoted by
Cook, who very much wanted some information respecting that part of the
island, particularly the peak, the tip of which is generally covered
with snow and had excited great curiosity. He desired the gunner of the
Resolution, the botanist sent out by Mr. Banks and Mr. Simeon Woodruff,
to be of the party. He also procured us some attendants among the
natives to assist us in carrying our baggage and directing us through
the woods. It required some prudence to make a good equipment for this
tour, for though we had the full heat of a tropical sun near the margin
of the island, we knew we should experience a different temperament in
the air the higher we advanced towards the peak, and that the transition
would be sudden, if not extreme. We therefore took each of us a woolen
blanket, and in general made some alteration in our dress, and we each
took a bottle of brandy. Among the natives who were to attend us was a
young chief whose name was O'Crany and two youths from among the
commonalty. Our course lay eastward and northward from the town, and
about two o'clock in the afternoon we set out. When we had got without
the town, we met an old acquaintance of mine (who ought indeed to have
been mentioned before). He was a middle aged man, and belonged to the
order of their Mida or priesthood, his name was Kunneava. We saluted
each other, and the old man asked with much impatient curiosity where we
were going; when we had informed him he disapproved of our intention,
told us that we could not go as far as we had proposed, and would have
persuaded us to return; but finding we were determined in our resolves,
he turned and accompanied us; about two miles without the town the land
was level, and continued of one plain of little enclosures separated
from each other by low broad walls. Whether this circumstance denoted
separate property, or was done only to dispense with the lava that
overspread the surface of the country, and of which the walls were
composed, I cannot say, but probably it denotes a distinct possession.
Some of these fields were planted, and others by their appearance were
left fallow.
In some we saw the natives collecting the coarse grass that had grown
upon it during the time it had lain unimproved, and burning it in
detached heaps. The sweet potatoes are mostly raised here, and indeed
are the principal object of their agriculture, but it requires an
infinite deal of toil on account of the quantity of lava that remains on
the land, notwithstanding what is used about the walls to come at the
soil, and besides they have no implements of husbandry that we could
make use of had the ground been free from the lava. If anything can
recompense their labor it must be an exuberant soil, and a beneficent
climate. We saw a few patches of sugar cane interspersed in moist
places, which were but small. But the cane was the largest and as sweet
as any we had ever seen; we also passed several groups of plantain
trees.
These enclosed plantations extended about three miles from the town,
near the back of which they commenced and were succeeded by what we
called the open plantations. Here the land began to rise with a gentle
ascent that continued about one mile, when it became abruptly steep.
These were the plantations that contained the breadfruit trees.
After leaving the breadfruit forests we continued up the ascent to the
distance of a mile and a half further, and found the land there covered
with wild fern, among which our botanist found a new species. It was now
near sundown, and being upon the skirts of these woods that so
remarkably surrounded this island at a uniform distance of four or five
miles from the shore, we concluded to halt, especially as there was a
hut hard by that would afford us a better retreat during the night than
what we might expect if we proceeded. When we reached the hut we found
it inhabited by an elderly man, his wife and daughter, the emblem of
innocent uninstructed beauty. They were somewhat discomposed at our
appearance and equipment, and would have left their house through fear
had not the Indians (natives) who accompanied us persuaded them
otherwise, and at last reconciled them to us. We sat down together
before the door, and from the height of the situation we had a complete
retrospective view of our route, of the town, of part of the bay and one
of our ships, besides an extensive prospect on the ocean, and a distant
view of three of the neighboring islands.
It was exquisitely entertaining. Nature had bestowed her graces with her
usual negligent sublimity. The town of Kireekakooa and our ship in the
bay created the contrast of art as well as the cultivated ground below,
and as every object was partly a novelty it transported as well as
convinced.
As we had proposed remaining at this hut the night, and being willing to
preserve what provisions we had ready dressed, we purchased a little pig
and had him dressed by our host who rinding his account in his visitants
bestirred himself and soon had it ready. After supper we had some of our
brandy diluted with the mountain water, and we had so long been confined
to the poor brackish water at the bay below that it was a kind of nectar
to us. As soon as the sun set we found a considerable difference in the
state of the air. At night a heavy dew fell and we felt it very chilly
and had recourse to our blankets notwithstanding we were in the hut. The
next morning when we came to enter the woods we found there had been a
heavy rain though none of it had approached us notwithstanding we were
within 200 yards of the skirts of the forest. And it seemed to be a
matter of fact both from the information of the natives and our own
observations that neither the rains or the dews descended lower than
where the woods terminated, unless at the equinoxes or some periodical
conjuncture, by which means the space between the woods and the shores
were rendered warm and fit for the purposes of culture, and the
sublimated vegetation of tropical productions.
We traversed these woods by a compass keeping a direct course for the
peak, and was so happy the first day as to find a foot-path that trended
nearly our due course by which means we traveled by estimation about 15
miles, and though it was no extraordinary march had circumstances been
different, yet as we found them, we thought it a very great one for it
was not only exceedingly miry and rough but the way was mostly an
ascent, and we had been unused to walking, and especially to carrying
such loads as we had. Our Indian companions were much more fatigued than
we were, though they had nothing to carry, and what displeased us very
much would not carry anything. The occasional delays of our botanical
researches delayed us something. The sun had not set when we halted yet
meeting with a situation that pleased us, and not being limited as to
time we spent the remaining part of the day as humour dictated, some
botanizing and those who had fowling pieces with them in shooting; for
my part I could not but think the present appearance of our encampment
claimed a part of our attention, and therefore set about some
alterations and amendments. It was the trunk of a tree that had fell by
the side of the path and lay with one end transversely over another tree
that had fallen before in an opposite direction, and as it measured 22
feet in circumference and lay 4 feet from, the ground, it afforded very
good shelter except at the sides which defect I supplied by large pieces
of bark and a good quantity of boughs which rendered it very commodious,
and we slept the night under it much better than we had done the
preceding, notwithstanding there was a heavy dew and the air cold; the
next morning we set out in good spirits hoping that day to reach the
snowy peak, but we had not gone a mile forward before the path that had
hitherto so much facilitated our progress began not only to take a
direction southward of west but had been so little frequented as to be
almost effaced. In this situation we consulted our Indian convoy, but to
no purpose. We then advised among ourselves and at length concluded to
proceed by the nearest rout without any beaten track, and went in this
manner about 4 miles further finding the way even more steep and rough
than we had yet experienced, but above all impeded by such impenetrable
thickets as would render it impossible for us to proceed any further. We
therefore abandoned our design and returning in our own track reached
the retreat we had improved the last night, having been the whole day in
walking about 10 miles, and had been very assiduous too. We found the
country here as well as at the seashore universally overspread with
lava, and also saw several subterranean excavations that had every
appearance of past eruption and fire.
The next day about two o'clock in the afternoon we cleared the woods by
our old rout, and by six o'clock reached the tents, having penetrated
about 24 miles and we supposed within II of the peak. Our Indians were
extremely fatigued though they had no baggage, and we were well
convinced that though like the stag and the lion they appear fit for
expedition and toil, yet like those animals they are fit for neither,
while the humbly mule will persevere in both.
According to an attitude
of the quadrant, the Peak of Owyhee is 35 miles distant from the surface
of the water, and its perpendicular elevation nearly 2 miles. The island
is exactly 90 leagues in circumference, is very nearly of a circular
form, and rises on all sides in a moderate and pretty uniform ascent
from the water to the Peak, which is sharp and caped, as I have before
observed, with snow, which seems to be a new circumstance, and among us
not altogether accounted for. As a truth and a phenomenon in natural
philosophy I leave it to the world. Owyhee has every appearance in
nature to suppose it once to have been a volcano. Its height, magnitude,
shape and perhaps its situation indicate not only that, but that its
original formation was effected by such a cause. The eastern side of the
island is one continued bed of lava from the summit to the sea, and
under the sea is 50 fathoms water some distance from the shore; and this
side of the island utterly barren and devoid of even a single shrub. But
there is no tradition among the inhabitants of any such circumstance.
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Vancouver's Exploration
The next English expedition to the Hawaiian Islands after the death of
Captain Cook was that commanded by George Vancouver in the year 1793-4,
published in 1798. Vancouver had visited the islands before, having been
connected with the staff of Captain Cook. King George the Third
commissioned him to explore distant lands for a term of four years and
to aid, so far as possible, in the improvement of the early
nationalities. Thus he was the agent of the importation of domestic
cattle into Hawaii. The Hawaiian King placed a kapu upon them for ten
years, which proved effectual for their continuance. At the present date
it is possible to obtain descendants of these early cattle just as lions
and elephants may be hunted in Africa. Sheep were also turned loose in
the forests by Vancouver, but they did not survive long because they
were hunted down by dogs. Other domestic animals that have reverted to
the wild state are swine, horses, dogs, poultry and turkeys.
Upon the eleventh of January, 1794, Vancouver observed columns of smoke
arising from Kilauea, which were recognized as volcanic exhalations.
After reaching the anchorage of Karakakooa parties were organized to
explore the interior, under the direction of Archibald Menzies, the
distinguished botanist. They first ascended Hualalai, or Worroway, which
they found to be a volcano over 8,000 feet high, with several small well
defined craters upon its summit, which were figured in the narrative. A
second trip penetrated the forest between Hualalai and Mauna Loa for a
distance of sixteen miles.
Finally the successful attempt was made to ascend Mauna Loa. Vancouver
did not present the results of this trip in his narrative, for some
unexplained reason. Being fully persuaded that the manuscript account of
this exploration must be in existence, I authorized Dr. Henry Woodward,
the well known English geologist, to search for it in London, and
through his efforts have come into possession of a copy. Because of its
great value as a record of the first attempt to climb this mountain by
Europeans, and of the condition of the volcano at that time, it is
herewith presented in full.
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Archibald Menzies' Journal
Feb. 5, 1794. Having by the fifth finished the
letters and packages for England, and delivered them to Capt.
Vancouver to be forwarded in the "Doedalus" store ship which was on
the point of sailing for New South Wales, I was desirous of making
another attempt to gain the summit of Mownaroa: for this purpose I
consulted with Tamaikamaika not only on the means but likewise on
the best route for accomplishing such an object; when he assured me
that the most likely way of succeeding was to ascend it from the
South side of the Island, to which I must go by water in one of his
canoes, and that he should take care to send with me a Chief well
acquainted with the proper route, who should possess proper
authority to protect me from any ill-usage in the journey and have
ample power to procure provisions, attendants, or whatever else
should be found necessary to accomplish so arduous an undertaking.
With such flattering attention from the King, and such prospect as
he represented of succeeding, I readily accepted his generous offer
and cheerfully consigned myself to the care and guidance of Rookea
the Chief whom he now appointed to conduct the Expedition, and to
whom he delivered the strictest injunctions respecting his charge:
the business being thus settled we prepared for our departure on the
following day: in the meantime Lieut. Baker and Mr. McKenzie of The
Discovery' and Mr. Haddington of The Chatham' expressed their desire
of accompanying us and obtained leave from their Commanders to share
in the pleasures as well as in the fatigues and hardships of this
enterprise.
Feb. 6th. Being all equipped we set out
from the vessels in the afternoon of the 6th of February, with the
Chief and about 20 paddlers, in a large double canoe belonging to
the King, and before we left the Bay we were join'd by Mr. Howell
who was to accompany us in another double canoe, with his own
attendants.
We now proceeded along the shore to the southward for
about four miles from Karakakooa, when we came to the Village of
Haunanow, where we landed for the night. We expressed our desire of
going further on but the Chief told us that there was not a place at
the next village sufficient to accommodate so large a party, for
which reason he wished us to remain here all night.
7th. Next day we embarked again, by
day-light, in the two canoes and got but a short distance when we
came opposite to a small village where the Chief wanted us to land
to breakfast, but this we overrul'd by declaring that we were not
hungry as we wished to get on as far as we could in the cool of the
morning: the next stage was, however, such a long one that we
afterwards regretted not having taken his advice, for the coast was
dreary and rocky and the shore so steep and rugged that we found no
place where we could land till it was near noon, when we entered a
small bay surrounded at the bottom by a sandy beach and groves of
Cocoa Palm Trees well cropp'd with fruit: here we landed at a small
village called Honomazino where the King ordered us to be supplied
with a stock of Cocoa-Nuts for our journey, and upwards of 200 of
them were packed up for that purpose, the greatest part of which
were sent on men's backs across the side of the mountain to meet us
in our ascent on the other side.
After refreshing and resting ourselves in the heat of
the day we were anxious to proceed again in the cool of the evening
but the natives informed us that there was too much wind to get
around the next point with the canoes, so that we were obliged to
remain here for the night.
The country round us at this place was so rugged,
dreary and barren, that the natives were obliged to depend a good
deal upon the sea for their sustenance. When the fishing canoes came
into the Bay in the evening we had an opportunity of observing their
manner of traffic with one another as the whole village, and people
even from other villages flocked about them and a brisk market was
kept up till they disposed of all their fish for small nails and
bits of iron and sometimes we observed that they drove very hard
bargains. Of these nails the fishermen make their fishhooks and no
doubt are obliged, in their turn, to purchase potatoes, yams, cloth,
&c from the Planters; thus we find that nails and bits of iron here
answer all the purposes of money and circulate amongst the natives
in the same way that gold and silver does with us.
The coast here is composed of huge masses of rocky
lava so porous and cavernous that the sea pervades it and renders
all the springs of water in the low ground and about the villages
brakish, that we were obliged to send 4 or 5 miles up the country
for good water, yet such is the force of habit that the natives
could use this brakish water very freely.
8th. At 8 next morning I observed the
Barometer at high water mark where I found the Mercury stood at 30
in 15 pts and the Thermometer was, at the same time, 74°.
Before I left the 'Discovery' I compared my Barometer
with the Marine Barometer on board and found them to agree in height
pretty nearly; it was therefore settled on to register the height of
the Marine Barometer in Karakakooa Bay every two hours between eight
in the morning and six the evening, daily, during my absence, and at
one or other of these hours I was to make my observations at the
different stations on the Mountain, and by taking afterwards the
difference of the corresponding observations made at the same
instant of time, the result would certainly prove more accurate than
the mode I adopted in my former journey, more especially in case of
any particular change of weather taking place while we were
ascending the Mountain.
After the whole party had breakfasted we left
Honomazino in our canoes about nine in the morning and soon after
passed the western part of the Island which is a dreary tract of the
most rugged rocks of lava scattered here and there with some
fishermen's huts. About noon we came to a small village named Manaka
where found our Chief Rookea's residence and where we landed before
his house at a small gape between rugged precipices against which
the surges dashed and broke with such violence and agitation and
with such horrific appearance, that even the idea of attempting it
chilled us with the utmost dread. We, however, quietly submitted
ourselves to their guidance and were highly pleased to see the
extraordinary dexterity with which they managed this landing. Having
placed their canoe in readiness before the gape they watched
attentively for a particular surge which they knew would spend
itself or be overcome in the recoil of the preceding surges before
it could reach the rocks, and with this surge they dashed in, landed
us upon a rock from which we scrambled up the precipice and in an
instant about 50 or 60 of the natives at the word of command
shouldered the canoe with everything in her, and clambering up the
rugged steep, lodged her safely in a large Canoe-House upon the
brink of the precipice, to our utmost astonishment. The other canoe
was landed in the same manner, and as the Chief had some
arrangements to make, we were obliged, in compliance with his
request to remain at this dreary-looking place all night, and a
situation more barren and rugged can scarcely be imagined. The kind
civilities and good treatment received from the natives were,
however, unremitting, and here, as if to make amends for the
dreariness of the situation, they particularly exerted themselves by
every means in their power to amuse and entertain us. The Chief and
his people were equally eager and attentive in doing little acts of
kindness and thereby assiduously displaying their unbounded
hospitality.
On seeing near this village a large pile of stones
built regularly up in a square form on the brink of the shore,
curiosity prompted us to enquire what was the intent of it, when
they informed us that it was erected to mark out the limits between
the two districts of Akona and Kaoo, by which we found out that we
had now reached the southern limits of Akona.
In the afternoon our attention was at one time
directed to a number of young women who stripped themselves quite
naked upon the summit of a pending cliff, and taking a short run
vaulted one after another from the brink of it headlong into the
sea, regardless of the foamed and agitated appearance of that
element, and as it were setting its wildest commotions at defiance,
for at this time the surf ran very high and dashed with furious
force against the cliff, yet they dexterously disentangled
themselves, and clambering up the rock again, repeated their leaps
several times with seeming satisfaction till they were quite
fatigued. The cliff was at least thirty feet high and so very rugged
with packed rocks which were now and then deluged with a boisterous
surf, that to look down the precipice was enough to intimidate any
one not accustomed to such extraordinary feats of activity.
The Chief here packed up a quantity of dried fish to
be carried with us, and presented each of us with a mat and a
quantity of Island Cloth to lay on at night during our journey.
9th. After an early breakfast on the
morning of the 9th we were again launched in our canoes and
proceeded to the Southward, keeping close along shore within the
recoil of the surges where, tho the water is much agitated they
conceive less danger of swamping as their canoes are much more
lively upon it than much further out at sea; yet, notwithstanding
our great confidence in their dexterity and management, we could
hardly divest our minds of the idea of danger when beholding every
moment the boisterous surges dashing with such furious violence
against the rugged and cavernous cliffs high over ourheads and
threatening us, as it were, every instant with overwhelming
destruction, nor were the appearances of the surges breaking on the
other side of us at times less awfull, as they threatened to deluge
and waft us, in their foaming course towards the rocks. We, however,
got through this wild navigation with no other inconvenience than
that of our apprehensions, and getting all very wet.
This part of the coast is a dreary rugged tract
composed of black porous rock of lava forming here and there
grotesque arches, vaults and deep caverns into which the sea pushes
by the violence and agitation of the waves with great force and
frequently gushes, up again several yards inland through chinks and
crevices with a. hissing noise, into the form of fountains which in
the sunshine reflect all the colours of the rainbow. These often
rivetted our attention as we went along and made us forget our own
danger in admiring their beautiful and picturesque appearances.
We at last prevailed on them to quit the windings of
the Shore where we were under so much dread, and steer a straighter
course across some small bays none of which appeared fit for
anchorage, from their being too much exposed, and early in the
afternoon we landed at a small village called Pateence near the
South point of the Island. We took up our abode in a house belonging
to Cavahero, and they told us that the village, which consisted only
of a few fishermen's huts, belong to Namahanna, Teamottoo's wife.
The country between this and Manaka, the place we left in the
morning, is one continued tract of loose, rough and picked lava, the
most dreary and barren that can possibly be conceived, so that it
would be a tedious and fatiguing journey to come from thence by land
and such as even the natives themselves seldom attempt, for when
they wish to visit the south side of the Island they generally come
thus far in canoes from the west side, and leave them here till they
return again, so that this forms a common port at which there were
several arrivals to and fro in the course of the evening.
Our Chief advised us to remain here all night and as
we knew so little of the country we were obliged to be entirely
under his control. The afternoon was spent in covering up our
canoes upon the beach, to preserve them from the sultry weather, and
in preparing everything for our land expedition which was to
commence the next morning. From hence we had a full view of the
snowy summit of the mountain which shewd a remarkable glaring lustre
from the sun's reflection. Some of the party that were despatched
across the country from Honomazino met us with Cocoa Nuts.
10th. After giving our several attendants
strict charge of their respective burthens we left our canoes at
Pateence and set out early on the morning of the l0th to prosecute
the remainder of our journey by land. We had not travelled far when
we found we had to ascend an elevated, steep, rugged, bank that took
its rise at the south point of the Island and running along the
southern side of Pateence Bay continued its
direction inland behind the village: on gaining its summit, which
was not an easy task, an extensive tract of the most luxurious
pasture we had yet seen amongst these Islands rushed at once upon
our sight, extending itself from the South point to a considerable
distance inland: it was cropp'd with fine soft grass reaching up to
our knees and naturally of a thick bottom that would afford
excellent feeding for cattle where herds of them might live at their
ease, if it was not for the scarcity of fresh water which we
experienced in all the low grounds we had yet visited.
From the summit of this bank we pursued a path
leading to the upper Plantations in a direct line towards Mownaroa,
and as we advanced the natives pointed out to us, on both sides of
our path, places where battles and skirmishes were fought in the
late civil wars between the adherents of the present King and the
party of Kaooa, the son of the late Tereoboo who was King of the
Island in Capt. Cook's time. Tamaika-maika's warriors were headed by
Tianna who at that time made use of fire-arms which obliged Kaooa's
warriors to intrench themselves by digging small holes in the ground
into which they squatted flat down at the flash of the muskets; many
of these little intrenchments are still very conspicuous and they
were pointed out to us by the natives with seeming satisfaction, as
it was to them a new mode of eluding the destructive powers of
firearms on plain ground. Here, then, we behold the first beginnings
of fortification amongst these people, which they probably never
thought of till these arms were introduced amongst them ,and we also
see that the same mode of fighting naturally begets the same mode of
defence in every part of the world. It was in these Wars that Tianna,
by his knowledge of fire-arms gained so much ascendancy on the
Island and became so powerful a Chief. We continued our ascent
through a rich tract of land which appeared to have laid fallow or
neglected ever since these wars, till we came to a grove of the Dooe
Dooe tree and under their shade we stopped to rest and refresh
ourselves, in the heat of the day. Close by us was a fine
Plantation, belonging to Tamaika Maika, called Tahookoo where our
Purveyor was particularly ordered to demand supplies for our
journey, which he did, and only received one small Hog. This,
however, did not come to our knowledge till after we had passed it,
and when the Chief told me of it I made a show of noting it down in
my little Memorandum Book in order to make it known to the King:
this had the desired effect for it instantly spread through the
crowd and from them to the Steward of the Plantation, whom we found
extremely assiduous in supplying our wants on our return.
In the afternoon we resumed our journey, and soon
after reached the upper Plantations, where instead of ascending
directly up the Mountain as we expected, they led us across these
Plantations, to the North Eastward at a distance of 5 or 6 miles
from the shore, by a narrow winding path which in some places was
very rugged, and seldom admitted more than one person at a time, so
that we followed one another in a string and occupied a considerable
space in length from the number of our own party and the crowds that
followed us from village to village through curiosity and flocked to
see us from far and near: this path we found to be the public road
leading to the East end of the Island, and on the small eminences
here and there we met clear'd spots for resting on, where the
wearied travelers generally set down to chew sugar-cane and admire
the surrounding prospect. Towards evening we descended into a fine
fertile valley, and put up for the night at a village called
Keeoraka on a rich Plantation belong to Cavahero, and we computed
that we had this day travelled 18 or 20 miles, though we did not
seem to be much more than half way that distance, in a straight line
from where we set out in the morning, the path was so circuitous and
winding, and we observed that a great deal of ground on both sides
of our path lay waste, which appeared to have been cultivated not
many years ago. This we ascribed to the late commotions on this part
of the Island, as it is the common custom of these people to destroy
the Plantations of the vanquished.
When we stoppd in the evening we were surrounded by
such a concourse of people who pressd so close upon us that we could
scarcely stir. Rookea, observing our situation, took a stick in his
hand and soon clear'd a circle for us: he afterwards Tabood a large
house for us and seemed to manage the natives with great authority.
This was by far the most populous village we had yet met with since
we left Karakakooa. Towards the dusk of the evening there fell some
showers of rain which gave a gay and refreshing look to the most
enchanting scenes of rural industry with which we were surrounded.
The economy with which these people laid out and managed their
ground, and the neatness with which they cultivated their little
fields, made the whole Valley appear more like a rich garden than a
Plantation: a stream of water which fell from the Mountain through
the middle of it was ingeniously branchd off, on each side, to flood
and fertilize the most distant fields at pleasure.
11th. We set out early on the morning of
the nth and ascended a steep verdant hill on the Eastern side of the
Valley, from the summit of which we had a charming prospect of the
country for a long way before us, presenting extensive and rich
plantations industriously cultivated: as we passed on through them
the natives pointed out one which they said the King had given to
Tooworero soon after we left him on the Island: this was further
confirmed to us by the vassals on it readily owning Tooworero as
their Chief. We found the people everywhere busily employed in their
little fields many of which were here croppd with Plantains and
Bananas which had a ragged appearance from having little or no
shelter, yet they bore fruit tolerably well. We seldom observed
these vegetables cultivated so low down on the Western side of the
Island where they generally occupy the verge of the Forest, a
situation which for shelter, seems more congenial to their tender
foliage. We observed here that they suffer many of their fields here
and there to lay fallow and these, in general, were cropp'd with
fine grass which they cut down for the purpose of covering their new
planted fields of Taro or Yams, to preserve them from the powerful!
heat of the sun.
After crossing these Plantations we came to a barren
woody tract, without even a Hut or the least arable land for a
considerable distance, and so arid that we could get no water to
quench our thirst or refresh ourselves: this made us quite out of
humour with our guides as the day was far advanced before we could
get any breakfast, and by the time we got through this dreary tract
we were ready to drop with hunger and fatigue.
At last we came to a romantic situation where there
were a few huts on the verge of the forests: here under a small
shade they spread a mat for us on which we threw ourselves down to
rest till some refreshments were got ready and till the heat of the
day was partly over. After taking our meal the Priests consecrated
our shade by planting Taboo sticks round it, on account of our
eating Pork, Cocoa Nuts and other prohibited provisions in it: this
deprived us entirely of the society of the ladies, for though they
set down on our mat before breakfast and were very chatty and
cheering, yet nothing would induce them to approach it after their
rods were stuck up: such is the powerfull influence of priestcraft
amongst these people.
In the afternoon we continued our journey by the same
path which still led along the upper Plantations, preserving nearly
the same distance from the sea-coast, and was excessively rugged and
woody, with here and there some intervening plantations arranged
alternatively with these rugged forests which seemed to mark the
latter courses of the Lava down the side of the Mountain. We stopped
in the evening at a Plantation belonging to Tamaikamaika, called
Poonaroo.
12th. Next day we continued our journey
through the same kind of picturesque country, and soon after setting
out from Poonaroo we crossed a Plantation belonging to Trailooevee
the Chief whose hand had been so badly wounded at Karakakooa before
we came away, and the following circumstances will show the goodness
of his heart and how thankfull he was for our attention towards him
on that occasion. He had, it seems, sent before us particular orders
for his Steward to wait upon us as we passed and make an offer of
whatever his Plantation produced. The Steward executed his Master's
mandate in the most friendly manner, and even pressed us with tears
of gratitude in his eyes, to accept something, as otherwise his
Master would think that he had not done his duty. This induced us to
take a few things from him, after which we assured him that if we
should stand in need of a further supply we would send back to him
for it, with which he appeared quite satisfied. Little acts of
hospitality and kindness are acceptable in all places and on all
occasions, but nowhere more particularly so than to the way-worn
travellers in remote regions and amongst uncivilized tribes where
those little civilities may be considered as the spontaneous
offerings of the heart and cannot fail to touch the feelings of
those on whom they are conferred, with a more than common sense of
gratitude and admiration.
Though we had much reason to be satisfied every step
we went with the kind attentions and unbounded hospitality of the
natives, yet we could not help being now a little out of temper with
them at the great distance they were taking us, as it were, round
the foot of the mountain till, in the afternoon we reached a fine
Plantation, called Tepapala, belonging to the King, from which, they
told us, we were to ascend the Mountain, and as the Chief had here
to provide his last supplies of provisions for our journey up we
were obliged to stop for the night, to allow him time for that
purpose.
In the evening we sent back one of the natives to
Karakakooa with a note to Capt. Vancouver, to relieve any anxiety he
might be under respecting us and to acquaint him with the distance
wehad come and the probable time it would still take us to
accomplish our object.
We were now within a few miles of the Volcano of
which there seemed to be, this day, a considerable eruption, and as
the wind blew from that direction, the smoke dust and ashes arising
from it proved very troublesome to our eyes in travelling with our
faces towards it.
13th. Before we set out on the morning of
the I3th I observed the Barometer at eight, when the Mercury stood
at 28 in 2O pts, which made our height at this place 1800 feet above
the level of the sea. The Thermometer was, at the same time, 67°.
After breakfast, everything being got ready, and the
party arranged, we continued our march through the Plantation for
two or three miles further and then began our ascent up the South
East side of Mauna-roa, in an easy slanting direction, passing
through groves of trees and clear spots, alternately, by a narrow
rugged path without meeting any more cultivated ground, after we
quitted the Plantation of Tepapala, or any houses till, towards
sun-set, when we came to two or three old huts where our guides told
us we must encamp for the night. The Chief no longer depended on his
own knowledge of the path but brought men with him from the last
Plantation to conduct the whole party up the Mountain which now lay
between us and Karakakooa: we had the Volcano to our right most part
of this day and in the forenoon the smoke and ashes arising from it
made the air very thick, which at times proved very tormenting to
our eyes.
At sun-set the Thermometer was at 54° and the
Barometer stood at 26 in 50 pts which made our height from the sea
3,510 feet.
14th. At sun-rise next morning the
Thermometer was so low as 41°, which was lower by two degrees than
we found it near the upper edge of the wood on Whararai at the same
time of the day, and yet we were not here advanced half way up the
woody region of the Mountain. Whether this diffusion of cold much
lower down be owing to there being but little wood on this side of
the mountain or to its being a much greater body than Whararai, I
cannot take upon me to say, as I have not sufficient data to
determine, but the air was at this time so chilly, and the natives
complained so much of the cold that we did not stir from the place
of our encampment till after breakfast when we again set forward up
the Mountain in a reversed oblique direction to what we came the day
before, but in so winding and circuitous a manner, and through such
pathless and rugged tracts, avoiding the lumps of forests here and
there, that had we not had good guides with us we should have met
with insurmountable difficulties.
We had sight now and then of the lower edge of the
snow which did not appear to be far above us: we therefore began to
entertain the most sanguine hopes of reaching it at least, should we
not be able to accomplish the full extent of our object in getting
to the summit. In the afternoon we turned our faces more directly up
the mountain when we found the ascent very steep and rugged and
consequently more fatiguing. Towards evening we reached the upper
verge of the forest, nearly over Tepapala, where we encamped for the
conveniency of having wood at hand to burn and erect our huts with.
The natives having pitched upon a clear spot overgrown only with
strong tall grass, they all set to work, and in the course of about
two hours erected a small village of huts sufficient to shelter
themselves and us comfortably for the night. These huts tho'
finished with such hurry were neatly constructed and well thatched
all over with long grass: a large one was built in the middle of the
village for us to eat and set in, besides a small one for each of us
to sleep in, where they spread our bedding on a thick layer of long
grass, so that we enjoyed our repose comfortably as we could wish.
While this business was going forward one of the
gentlemen laying down his knife carelessly had it stole from him:
this was made known to Rookea, who immediately caused diligent
search to be made for it and made such a stir about it amongst the
whole party that it was soon found again, and one of the strangers
who followed us up was suspected of having conceald it, for which
the Chief was in such a rage at him, for this act of dishonesty that
he would certaintly have put an end to his existence, on the spot;
by plunging the knife into his body, had we not interfered at the
moment he had his hand lifted over him to commit the horrid deed: he
then peremptorily ordered him to quit the encampment and not to show
his face again amongst the party.
This was the only instance of an attempt to pilfer
from us the least article during the whole journey, though we were
often surrounded by immense crowds, and even at this time, what with
men and women who followed us up the mountain through curiosity, and
our own attendants, who carried bedding, water, and provisions of
every kind for themselves and us we were very little short of a
hundred people in the party.
In this day's march we saw many strange-looking
plants different from any we had before observed, but very few of
them being in either flower or seed it was not possible to make out
what they were. Near our encampment I found a large beautiful
species of Vicia clambering up amongst the thickets in full bloom.
Being now at the upper edge of the forest I observed
the Barometer at six in the evening, when it stood at 23 in 73 pts
which is equal to 6,500 ft. in altitude, and this may be considered
as the height at which the wood ceases to grow upon this immense
mountain. The Thermometer, observed at the same time, was at 41°,
and as we had heated ourselves a good deal in this day's march up
the mountain we felt the air after sunset remarkably chilly and
cold, which induced us to keep large fires burning near our huts
during the whole night: notwithstanding this precaution many of the
natives were so restless with the cold & continued coughing that
they enjoyed very little repose, and not indeed without cause, for
when we got up next morning the Thermometer was at 28° and the grass
which grew about our huts was so stiff and whitened by hoar frost,
and the earth that was anywise moist or swampy was encrusted with
icy concretions about our encampment.
The frost, therefore, must have been keen during the
night time, and from this circumstance I think we may consider the
upper edge of the wood as the lower line of congelation upon this
mountain, but meeting with it so low down as we here did, and that,
too, on a tropical mountain, so closely surrounded by the mild
temperature of the sea-air, will no doubt stagger the belief of
those who have been led to consider the lower line of congelation
within the tropics as having a much greater altitude even in
continental regions which are always allowed to be colder than
Islands of moderate size.
15th. The natives, who were all
bare-footed, could not stir out of their huts in the morning, until
after breakfast when the cheering influence of the sun dispersed the
frost, but they greatly dreaded its consequences higher up the
mountain, where they said the cold was so intense that it would
certainly kill us and them too, and they described its effects by
contracting and shivering themselves and cautioned us very strongly
against going higher up or exposing ourselves and them to such
danger: even the old Chief Rookea was so strongly prepossessed of
this opinion that he now entreated us in the most earnest manner to
relinquish the idea of going higher, for that he and several others
were already nearly overcome with the fatigue of the journey, and
that the cold on the mountain would kill them. We endeavored to
sooth their minds by promising them that we should not attempt to go
higher up than the edge of the snow which we did not conceive to be
far from us, and after accomplishing that, which we should
undoubtedly be able to do, in the heat of the day, we should return
again to the encampment in the evening. They appeared so far
satisfied with this declaration that we set out after breakfast,
followed by the whole party, in a direct line up the mountain, but
we soon found that many of them came on so slow and reluctantly that
about ten in the forenoon we proposed to the Chief that he and most
of the party should return back and encamp on the edge of the forest
whilst we should go on with the guides and a few stout volunteers of
the natives to carry some little refreshment and some of our bedding
to wrap round us and them in case the cold should be found too
powerfull to withstand. The Chief, finding his former entreaties of
no avail, readily agreed to this proposal, and parted with us with
tears in his eyes, after he and our guides had fixed upon the place
where they were to wait for our return.
Having made this arrangement we continued our
progress up the rugged steep which now became naked, dreary, and
barren, with only here and there little tufts of grass in the
crevises of the rocks: by noon finding that vegetation had entirely
ceased, not a blade of grass, moss, or even lichen was to be seen
anywhere around us for some time, I observed the Barometer to
ascertain our height, when I found it was 2oin 55pts which is equal
to 10543 feet above the level of the sea, so that this may be
considered as the upper line of vegetation, or rather a little above
it, on this mountain, but whether this was occasioned by the want of
soil of which there was nothing but volcanic dreggs, or the
particular rarefaction and temperature of the air at this height
being inimical to vegetation, I cannot take upon me to say, though
the latter, I think, is most probable.
While we were resting and refreshing ourselves after
making these observations, one of the natives, who struggled higher
up the mountain, came running back to us with snow in his hand, and
though we were much fatigued, for the ascent was very steep, yet
this gave us fresh encouragement and we continued to ascend till we
passed several patches of snow, when in the evening, finding that we
were not likely to gain the summit of the mountain with daylight,
for every height seemed lengthening as we went on, we did not
conceive it prudent to go far into the snow and therefore stopd
short to consult with one another on what was to be done, whether we
should go back to the encampment for the night and come up next day
better provided, or whether we should venture to remain where we
were all night, at the mercy of the weather on the bleak slope of
this immense mountain, and on the small pittance of provisions we
had with us? Everyone was so fatigued with this day's journey, for
we made uncommon exertions in the expectation of gaining our object,
that the dreadof descending and ascending again such a rugged steep
made us, at all hazards, prefer the latter.
At this time one of the gentlemen, Mr. Haddington,
who went higher up amongst the snow, accompanied by one of the
natives, in expectation of reaching the summit, returned to us so
overpowerd with fatigue that he was taken very ill: in this state we
dreaded the consequence of his remaining with us all night, and
after giving him some little refreshment, we sent him off before he
coold or stiffend with the cold, to the encampment, attended by two
of the natives, and we were happy afterwards to find that he reached
it in due time, and fortunately recovered.
As we had now taken up our abode at the lower edge of
the snow I observed the Barometer at six in the evening, when it
stood at I9 in 80 pts which in altitude is equal to 11,515 feet, and
the Thermometer at the same time was at 33°.
We were not, as might naturally be expected, at this
time, without our apprehensions that our constitutions which were
for some time inurd to the searching heats of a tropical climate
below, would be greatly affected by this sudden transition to the
upper snowy region of the Mountain, for since we began our ascent we
may be said to have gone through all the variety of climates between
the Equator and the Pole. We quitted the tropical plantations below
and came through the vast forest which surrounds the middle region
of the Mountain and which may justly be considered as its temperate
zone, and now we are stationed for the night within the verge of the
frigid zone of this immense peak, which in this way may be aptly
compared to one of our Hemispheres, and yet, after all, we were so
inconsiderate of our own safety as not to make any particular
provision of warm clothing to prevent the banefull effects of this
sudden change: it happened, however, very fortunate that the weather
proved mild and favourable all the while, so that we did not suffer
so much inconvenience by this quick transition from the tropical
regions to this frigid zone as might be apprehended.
After the excessive perspiration we underwent in this
fatiguing day's journey, clambering up a steep rugged ascent wholly
exposed to the influence of the sun in the heat of the day, it was
necessary to take every precaution in our power to prevent numbness
and stiffness of our limbs by exercise and continually moving about
to keep ourselves warm, for we had nothing here wherewith we could
keep up a fire, and all the provisions we had remaining was a small
quantity of chocolate, a few ship's biscuits and near a quart of
rum, together with a few Cocoa Nuts: of these articles we carefully
preserved the best half for next day,and divided the other half as
equal as we could amongst the party which was now about a dozen in
number. We managed to boil the chocolate in a tin pot over a small
fire made of our walking sticks, and each had his share of it warm,
with a small quantity of rum in it, before he went to bed. We had no
other water than what we melted from the snow, which we thought
greatly improvd the chocolate.
For our bed we made choice of a flat even rock on
which we could all huddle close together, and after marking out the
exact space we should occupy, of it, we raised a small parapet round
it, with the Lava, to break off the wind which after sunset blew
very keen and penetrating: all the bed clothes we hitherto required
were a few folds of the Sandwich Island Cloth over us, with a mat
under us which was found sufficiently comfortable in the lower
regions, but this night, after spreading a mat on the bare rock, as
it was agreed we should all sleep together to keep ourselves warm,
we joined together everything we had for a general covering, made
pillows of the hard lava, and in this was passed the night,
tolerably comfortable, though we could not sleep much, nor was it
indeed to be expected. At this time, so many thousand feet high,
reclined on the hard rock for our bed, with no other shelter than
the grand canopy of heaven our minds were variously occupied,
sometimes in meditating on the dreadful consequences of a snowstorm
coming on whilst we were thus situated: at other times in
contemplating the awfull & extended scene round us where the most
profound stillness subsisted the whole night, not even interrupted
by the least chirp of a bird or an insect. The moon rose out of the
sea at an immense distance and her orb appeared uncommonly large and
brilliant, and the sky being perfectly clear overhead, the
assemblage of stars appeard very numerous and shone with unusual
brightness. These led the imagination to the utmost stretch and
afforded objects of both wonder and admiration.
16th. Next morning, at sun-rise, the
Thermometer was at 26° and the air was excessively keen and
piercing: we made a scanty meal on the remainder of our provision,
before we set out, but for want of fuel, had the greatest difficulty
in getting our chocolate boiled, though we burnt mats and everything
we could think of. Those of the natives who appeared less able to
withstand the cold or further fatigue were sent down to the
Encampment, and at the same time we set forward with the rest of
them, up the Mountain, carrying with us the remainder of the liquor
and a few Cocoa Nuts as our only resource of refreshment in case of
emergencies. As we went on we soon found the ascent become less
steep and everywhere chequered over with large patches of snow which
was so .hard that we walked over it with ease, and we marched a
pretty quick pace to keep ourselves warm. We found the summit of the
mountain nearly flat for several miles, strewd over with huge lumps
of loose lava, and here and there deep snow. About 11 in the
forenoon we arrived at the mouth of an immense crater at least three
miles in circumference, and looking round us we conceived the
western edge of it to be the highest part of the mountain. I was
therefore desirous to make that the place of observation with the
Barometer, but being on the south side of the crater, to get to this
eminence we had to cross over a large hollow full of hideous chinks
and chasms in all directions, and strewd over with large masses of
broken and peeked lava in irregular piles, exhibiting the most
rugged and disruptive appearance that can possibly be conceived. Mr.
Howell's shoes being already cut and torn in pieces with the lava,
and his strength being much exhausted with fatigue, he declined
attempting this dreadful place: we therefore left him and the
natives on the South side of it, to wait our return, while Mr.
Baker, Mr. McKenzie, and myself, and the servant who carried the
Barometer, crossed over this rugged hollow after a hard and
persevering struggle, and by noon got to the highest part of the
mountain, on the western brink of the great crater, where I observed
the Barometer and found the Quicksilver stood at 18 in 40 pts, and
that on board 'The Discovery' at Karakakooa
Bay, observed at the same instant of time, was found to be in 30 in
16 pts so that the difference is 11 in 76 pts, which will make the
height of this immense mountain 13,634 feet above the level of the
sea; but it is necessary to observe that the correction for the
temperature of the atmosphere has not been allowed for in this
calculation nor at any other station upon the mountain, which will
make some difference in the result of the observations. The
Thermometer here was at 62°. Mowna-Kaah bore by compass North by
East of us; Highland of Wowee North West by North; and Whararai,
which appeared under us like a hilloc, bore North West by West. I
regretted much not having a spirit-level or some other instrument to
ascertain whether this mountain or Mowna-Kaah is the highest, though
from the Peak of the latter being at this time more whitened over
with snow, I am inclined to think it would have the pre-eminence in
this respect, to Mowna-roa.
The sides of the Crater (which was, as near as we
could guess, about a mile in diameter), were quite perpendicular
and, as we conjectured, about 400 yards in height, all around,
excepting opposite to the hollow already mentioned, where the height
was much less: the bottom of it was quite flat, being filled up with
lava with a wavy roughness on its surface, apparently in the state
in which it coold in this immense furnace. At the edge of it we
observed some smoke in two or three places which we conceived to
issue from hot springs, as on our way back to the party we visited
the entrance to a cavern out of which there issued a very hot
stream. In undergoing our struggle again across the rugged hollow we
all felt less or more exhausted with fatigue, but Mr. Baker in
particular became so weak and faint, that we were obliged to stop
for him two or three times till he recovered his strength, and when
we came back to the place where we left Mr. Howell and the natives,
we found only two of the latter in waiting for us, faithful (poor
fellows) to their trust, though shivering with the cold at the
risque of their lives, and patiently enduring the pangs of both
hunger and thirst; but when they informed us that Mr. Howell and the
rest of the natives had gone off for the encampment, and had carried
away with them the small quantity of liquor which we had carefully
preservd for emergencies, it sounded like the knell of death in our
eyes, and we could not help blaming Mr. Howell for thus deserting
us; but the absence of our cordial, on which we had built our only
hope of cheering comfort to enable us to go through the long journey
still before us afflicted us most: thus overwhelmed, spiritless &
faint, we threw ourselves down upon the bare rocks and for some
moments revolved our melancholy situation in silence. The distance
we were from the party, which was considerably more than half the
height of the mountain; the ruggedness and steepness of the
declivity; and our weakness and inability to undergo fatigue without
some miraculous support, all obtruded themselves on our minds in the
most gastly shapes. On further enquiry we found that our trusty
friends had still a reserve of three Cocoa Nuts: the liquor of these
we gradually sipt and it greatly revivd us, and after eating some of
the kernels which were carefully divided amongst us, we set out on
our return to the encampment where we were so fortunate as to arrive
safe at ten at night, after the most persevering and hazardous
struggle that can possibly be conceived.
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Other
Statements
The natives of Captain Wilkes' party in 1841 stated that there had been
an eruption from the north Pohaku o Hanalei sixty years earlier, or
about 1780. This accords with the specific statement of Keaweehu the
bird catcher and guide who said there had been an eruption upon the
mountain shortly after the death of Captain Cook.
John Turnbull in his narrative of a voyage around the world from 1800 to
1804, says that as he was leaving Karakakooa, January 21, 1803, he had a
full view of some eruptions from the volcanic center of the island of
Owhyhee. This must have been upon the west or north side of Mokuaweoweo.
He adds that "many parts of the surface of the island are covered with
lava, calcined stones, black dust and ashes emitted by former
eruptions." An indefinite statement was made by G. Poulett Scrope in his
classic work upon volcanoes published in 1825. Upon his map he colors
the Hawaiian Archipelago as volcanic: he says nothing of the
observations of Ellis which were the only testimony from observations
made on the island before that date; but remarks that navigators in the
Pacific Ocean had seen lava flowing down the sides of Mauna Loa. Whether
he made reference to the two instances quoted cannot be proved. It is
very probable that Mokuaweoweo showed less activity after 1780 and
before 1832 than in the decades since.
Back to Contents
Mokuaweoweo Between 1832 And 1843
Rev. Joseph Goodrich is authority for the statement that lava flowed
from several vents about the summit on June 20, 1832. Light was observed
from Lahaina on Maui, a hundred miles to the northwest.
Lava was seen coming out of the sides of the mountain in different
places. Discharges of red hot lava were seen on every side of the
mountain. This would seem to indicate that these flows were like all the
later ones, not from the summit, but from some weak spot lower down. The
reflection of fire upon the clouds at the first was probably regarded as
evidence of a flow from the summit. Earthquakes were noted on Hawaii
during the summer and quite an important display of activity was
manifested at Kilauea, probably a few months earlier (Jan. 12).
The impression prevails that these eruptions from Mokuaweoweo and
Kilauea were simultaneous; and to reach this conclusion we must believe
that the writing Jan. was a printer's error for June, in the account of
Kilauea.
The records are meagre with respect to the location of this flow. The
Government map shows a small area upon the south side of the caldera,
and close to it, with the label of 1832. I have questioned everybody as
to the authority for this representation, and no one connected with the
Survey can give the information. Our doubt respecting this reference
comes from the unusual position immediately adjacent to Mokuaweoweo.
None of the eruptions on record later are so situated; they are lower
down. Mr. Green refers its altitude to 13,000 feet in a table, but makes
no remark concerning it in his text. The light was seen at Lahaina by
Mr. Goodrich. That might have been the illumination always seen at the
beginning of every flow. If the discharge was upon the south side it
would not be very conspicuous from Maui. Mr. E. D. Baldwin suggests that
there is a flow of recent lava, judging from its appearance, just inside
o the great prehistoric Keamuku flow, arising near the beginning of the
1852 stream, which would have been visible from Lahaina, and might
possibly have been erupted at this time. Keamoku is also well situated
to answer the conditions even better, should the flow have been
sufficiently recent. In 1834 the summit was visited by Dr. David
Douglas, an exploring naturalist. Some of his statements have been
discredited because of apparent exaggeration of the terrific activity of
Mokuaweoweo.
He used instruments for the determination of altitudes and areas. He
represented that there were great chasms in the pit that he could not
fathom, even with a good glass when the air was clear. Upon the east
side he used a line and plummet, and obtained the figure of 1,270 feet
for the height of the precipice. The southern part of the crater
presented an old looking lava. He heard hissing sounds apparently
connected with internal fire. The greatest portion of this huge dome was
said to be a gigantic mass of slag, scoriae and ashes.
Dr. Douglas lost his life shortly after his return from Mokuaweoweo. As
his remains were found in a pit where wild cattle were entrapped it was
supposed at first that he had accidentally fallen into it and was gored
to death; but recently it has been ascertained that he had been thrown
into this pit Jan. 27, 1834, by a bullock hunter named Ned Gurney, an
Australian convict. This statement comes from Bolabola, an Hawaiian who
was ten years old at the time of the homicide. He and his parents were
intimidated by Gurney, so that fifty or sixty years passed before he was
willing to testify to the nature of the transaction.
S. E. Bishop says of
this locality: In March, 1836, I looked into the pit where David Douglas
perished. It was close to the inland trail from Waimea to Laupahoehoe,
on the N. N. E. side of Mauna Kea, ten or fifteen miles northwest of
Laupahoehoe and in the woods.
Back to Contents
The
Wilkes Party Upon Mauna Loa
The most elaborate attempt to take observations upon Mauna Loa was that
of the United States exploring expedition in 1840-41. Captain Wilkes,
the officer in command of the expedition, wished to apply the best
apparatus of his time for the determination of geodetic positions and
altitudes besides observing the volcanic phenomena and mapping the
country.
His ship anchored at Hilo. The party started December 14, 1840, and the
last of them returned to Hilo, Jan. 23, 1841, making an absence of
fortytwo days. Twenty-eight days were spent upon Mauna Loa; six days
were required to make the ascent and two for the descent to Kilauea. At
the beginning the company was to be compared to a caravan. It consisted
of two hundred bearers of burdens, forty hogs, a bullock and bullock
hunter, fifty bearers of poi, twentyfive with calabashes of different
shapes and sizes, from six inches to two feet in diameter. Some of the
bearers carried the scientific apparatus, others parts of the house to
be erected on the summit, tents, knapsacks and culinary utensils. There
were lame horses and as many hangers on as there were laborers. The
natives moved under the direction of Dr. G. P. Judd, without whose help
the expedition would have been a failure. After the start thirty more
natives were added to the company so as to equalize the burdens.
After passing Kilauea the number of the party was somewhat reduced, but
there were still three hundred persons in all to be provided with food
and water. Sickness and accidents led to the establishment of the
Recruiting Station or hospital at the altitude of 9,745 feet. All the
party experienced more or less of mountain sickness. The final
encampment was on the edge of the pit of Mokuaweoweo, and the party
suffered much from the inclement weather. There were a dozen separate
tents and houses, all surrounded by a high stone wall. These are shown
in Plate16A. Fifty men were detailed from the vessel to complete the
undertaking. The serviceable natives returned down the mountain after
the necessary articles had been brought up, and came back after the
termination of the observations in order to transport this valuable
apparatus back to the ship.

The following facts were stated about the mountain: Its whole area was
of lava, chiefly of very ancient date, rough and seemingly
indestructible, made up of streams that had flowed from the central
vents for many ages. Both pahoehoe and clinkers (aa) abounded. Wilkes
concluded that the clinkers were formed in the great pit where they were
broken and afterwards ejected with the more fluid material. Their
progress would have continued till the increased bulk and attendant
friction arrested the stream. Pahoehoe seemed to have flowed from the
clinker masses that had been stranded. The crater was likened to an
immense caldron, boiling over the rim, and discharging the molten mass
and scoria which had floated on its top.

From the plan of Mokuaweoweo as given by Wilkes, Plate I7A, the
following points may be made. The central part is the deepest, seven
hundred and eighty-four feet by the west bank and four hundred and
seventy feet by the east. This part is 9,000 feet in diameter nearly
circular. The bottom is flat, with ridges from ten to fifty feet high,
alternating with deep chasms and pahoehoe. Skirting this pit on both the
north and south sides are lunate platforms apparently two-thirds as high
as the summit rim, both together having an area perhaps half that of the
main depression, and their outer rims coincide with the outline of the
whole caldera. Just outside of both are smaller pits, the northern one
two hundred feet and the southern nearly three hundred feet in diameter.
The last has the name of Pohaku o Hanalei from Wilkes, showing seventy
layers of basalt in the walls, and a cooled stream of lava that came
from the larger crater. A smaller pit-crater is mapped to the south.
There are many deep fissures about these pits and the lava has a very
fresh appearance, being suggestive of obsidian. From the Pohaku o
Hanalei a great steam crack points southerly. The highest point in the
rim is opposite the encampment, with the altitude of 13,780 feet, three
hundred and forty feet higher than at the station, which had the name of
Pendulum Peak. Mauna Kea proved to be one hundred and ninety-three feet
higher than Mauna Loa. Water boiled at 187° F. at Pendulum Peak. For
some reason the main axis of Mokuaweoweo was placed at N. and S. instead
of N. 26 E. It differed from Kilauea in the absence of a black ledge and
a boiling lake and the evidences of heat were scant. There was one
cinder cone at least upon the floor. Sodium and calcium sulphates,
magnesium and calcium carbonates, ammonium sulphates and sulphurous
gases were met with in the pit.
The clinkers were compared to the scoriae from a foundry, in size from
one to ten feet square, armed on all sides with sharp points. The
fragments are loose with a considerable quantity of the vitreous lava
mixed with them.
As to origin, both the
smooth and rough varieties are conceived to have been ejected in a fluid
state from the terminal (summit) crater. The "clinkers" are seldom found
in heaps, but lie extended in beds for miles in length, sometimes a mile
wide, and occasionally raised from ten to twenty feet above the general
slope of the mountain. The "clinkers" were formed in the crater itself,
broken up by contending forces, ejected with the more fluid lava, which
carried it down the mountain slope until arrested by the accumulating
weight or by the excessive friction. They were streams of lava: and this
opinion was fortified by the observation that pahoehoe came out from
underneath the masses of clinkers wherever they had stopped. The crater
was an immense caldron boiling over the rim. No facts are presented in
favor of this view, and the idea was evidently borrowed from the
conception of what a volcano should be. There had been no signal
eruption previous to 1840 when the characteristic stream flows of this
mountain had been developed.
Back to Contents
Eruption of 1843
According to Dr. Andrews, smoke was first seen from Hilo above the
summit, January 9th. The next night a brilliant light appeared above the
summit like a beacon fire. By day great volumes of smoke were poured
forth, and for a week there was a fire by night. The summit fire was
then transferred to a point near the ridge leading towards Hilo about
11,000 feet high. The lava flowed from two craters toward Mauna Kea,
according to Mr. Coan, who ascended to the source of the flow. It was
supposed at first that the eruption was an overflow from' the summit:
this was before the behavior of the flows from very high up the mountain
was understood. The lava spread out broadly from about the altitude of
11,000 feet to the base of the dome, and then rolled in a northwesterly
direction towards Kawaihae more than sixteen miles. The lowest point of
the stream in the saddle between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea was near
Kalaieha or the Humuula sheep station. Though so stated by Mr. Coan, the
map does not indicate that a branch of the stream was directed toward
Hilo. The greatest width of the stream was four and a half miles. The
beginning of the outflow was less than a mile and a half from Pohaku
Hanalei. It trespassed slightly upon the Keamoku flow, which started
from Kokoolau at an unknown period and moved twenty miles to the Trig,
station Keamoku, from 7,800 to 3,300 feet altitude. After the
refrigeration of the surface of the lava, the melted material continued
to flow under cover for more than six weeks. The angle of descent for
the whole distance is six degrees, but occasionally there were steep
pitches of twenty-five degrees. Large stones thrown upon the surface did
not sink but were rapidly transported downwards and lost to sight.
Mounds, ridges and cones were thrown up, from which steam, gases and hot
stones were thrown. On March 6th snow was found upon the summit. During
this eruption there was no sign of sympathy with it at Kilauea.
From a native newspaper, Ka Hae Hawaii (The Hawaiian Banner), Rev. W. D.
Westervelt has made the following translation of an account of the
eruption of 1843, m tne Paradise of the Pacific, November, 1908.
The eruption of January 10, 1843, was described by Mr. Coan. In the
morning while it was still entirely dark a small flame of Pele fire was
seen on the summit of Mauna Loa, on the northeastern shoulder of the
mountain. Soon afterward the fire opened another door and the lava
rushed down the side directly opposite Mauna Kea. Two 'branches were
pouring forth lava, filling the place between the two mountains,
covering it with fire like the spreading out of an ocean. One branch
went toward the foothills of Hualalai and the other toward Mauna Kea
until the flow came to the foot of the mountain, when it divided, one
part going toward Waimea and one toward Hilo. Four weeks this eruption
continued without cessation. The fires could not come to the sea coast,
but filled up the low places of the mountain and spread out all over the
different plains. Then it was imprisoned.
Brilliant fires were
noted at the summit in May, 1849, after the unusual activity in Kilauea.
These lasted for two or three weeks, but there was no evidence of
accompanying earthquakes or discharge of lava.
Back to Contents
Mokuaweoweo in 1851
There was a small flow on the west side of the summit commencing August
8, 1851. The smoke and fire were visible at Hilo. From Kona the light
was gorgeous and glorious. Detonations were heard during the eruption,
like the explosion of gases or rending of rocks. According to Professor
Brigham, who visited the site in 1864, the starting point was 1,000 feet
below the summit or two hundred feet below the floor of the caldera.
The stream was ten miles long and less than a mile in width. Most of the
lava was pahoehoe, with some aa, and seemed to have cooled rapidly. The
course was westward, following very closely an earlier prehistoric flow
reaching down to Kealakeakua. The eruption continued but three or four
days. Back to Contents
Eruption of 1852
The preceding eruption was really the opening scene of a fine exhibition
six months later which started on the north side of the mountain,
February i7th. On February 2Oth, the chief flow had shifted to another
place about 10,000 feet above the sea level. The escaping lava rose at
first in a lofty fountain, and then flowed easterly twenty miles.
I quote quite extensively from Mr. Coan; Amer. Jour. Science, 1852.
"At half past three on the morning of the I7th ultimo, a small beacon
light was discovered on the summit of Mauna Loa. At first it appeared
like a solitary star resting on the apex of the mountain. In a few
moments its light increased and shone like a rising moon. Seamen keeping
watch on deck in our port exclaimed:
'What is that? The moon is rising in the West!'
In fifteen minutes the problem was solved. A flood of fire burst out of
the mountain and soon began to flow in a brilliant current down its
northern slope. It was from the same point, and it flowed in the same
line as the great eruption which I visited in March, 1843. In a short
time immense columns of burning lava shot up heavenward to the height of
three or four hundred feet, flooding the summit of the mountain with
light and gilding the firmament with its radiance. Streams of light came
pouring down the mountain, flashing through our windows and lighting up
our apartments so that we could see to read large print. When we first
awoke, so dazzling was the glare on our windows that we supposed some
building near us must be on fire; but as the light shone directly upon
our couch and into our faces we soon perceived its cause. In two hours
the molten stream had rolled,
as we judged, about fifteen miles down the side of the mountain. This
eruption was one of terrible activity and surpassing splendor, but it
was short. In about twenty-four hours all traces of it seemed to be
extinguished.
"At daybreak on the 2Oth of February, we were again startled by a rapid
eruption bursting out laterally on the side of the mountain facing Hilo,
and about midway from the base to the summit of the mountain. This
lateral crater was equally active with the one on the summit, and in a
short time we perceived the molten river flowing from its orifice direct
towards Hilo. The action became more and more fierce from hour to hour.
Floods of lava poured out of the mountain's side, and the glowing river
soon reached the woods at the base of the mountain, a distance of twenty
miles.
"Clouds of smoke ascended and hung like a vast canopy over the mountain,
or rolled off upon the wings of the wind. These clouds assumed various
hues murky, blue, white, purple or scarlet as they were more or less
illuminated from the fiery abyss below. Sometimes they resembled an
inverted burning mountain with its apex pointing to the awful orifice
over which it hung. Sometimes the glowing pillar would shoot up
vertically for several degrees, and then describing a graceful curve,
sweep off horizontally, like the tail of a comet, further than the eye
could reach. The sable atmosphere of Hilo assumed a lurid appearance,
and the sun's rays fell upon us with a yellow, sickly light. Clouds of
smoke careered over the ocean, carrying with them ashes, cinders,
charred leaves, etc., which fell in showers upon the decks of ships
approaching our coast. The light was seen more than a hundred miles at
sea, and at times the purple tinge was so widely diffused as to appear
like the whole firmament on fire. Ashes and capillary vitrifactions
called Tele's hair' fell thick in our streets and upon the roofs of our
houses. And this state of things still continues, for even now (March
5th) while I write, the atmosphere is in the same yellow and dingy
condition; every object looks pale, and sickly showers of vitreous
filaments are falling around us, and our children are gathering them.
"As soon as the second eruption broke out I determined to visit it. Dr.
Wetmore agreeing to accompany me, we procured four natives to carry our
baggage, one of them, Kekai, acting as guide. On Monday, the 23d of
February, we all set off and slept in the outskirts of the great forest
which separates Hilo from the mountains. Our track was not the one I
took in 1843, namely, the bed of a river; we attempted to penetrate the
thicket at another point, our general course bearing southwest."
Without specifying matters relating to the party and circumstances, I
quote the text farther on:
"At half past three P. M. I reached the awful crater and stood alone in
the light of its fires. It was a moment of unutterable interest. I
seemed to be standing in the presence and before the throne of the
eternal God, and while all other voices were hushed His alone spoke. I
was 10,000 feet above the sea, in a vast solitude untrodden by the foot
of man or beast; amidst a silence unbroken by any living voice, and
surrounded by scenes of terrific desolation. Here I stood almost blinded
by the insufferable brightness; almost deafened with the startling
clangor; almost petrified with the awful scene. The heat was so intense
that the crater could not be approached within forty or fifty yards on
the windward side, and probably not within two miles on the leeward.
The eruption, as before stated, commenced on the very summit of the
mountain, but it would seem that the lateral pressure of the embowelled
lava was so great as to force itself out at a weaker point in the side
of the mountain, at the same time cracking and rending the mountain all
the way down from the summit to the place of ejection. The mountain
seemed to be siphunculated; the fountain of fusion being elevated some
two or three thousand feet above the lateral crater, and being pressed
down an inclined subterranean tube, escaped through this valve with a
force which threw its burning masses to the height of four or five
hundred feet. The eruption first issued from a depression in the
mountain, but a rim of scoriae two hundred feet in elevation had already
been formed around the orifice in the form of a hollow truncated cone.
This cone was about half a mile in circumference at its base, and the
orifice at the top may be three hundred feet in diameter. I approached
as near as I could bear the heat, and stood amidst the ashes, cinders,
scoriae, slag and pumice, which were scattered wide and wildly around.
From the horrid throat of this cone vast and continuous jets of red-hot
and sometimes white-hot lava were being ejected with a noise that was
almost deafening, and a force which threatened to rend the rocky ribs of
the mountain and to shiver its adamantine pillars. At times the sound
seemed subterranean, deep and infernal. First, a rumbling, a muttering,
a hissing or deep premonitory surging; then followed an awful explosion,
like the roar of broadsides in a naval battle, or the quick discharge of
pack after pack of artillery on the field of carnage. Sometimes the
sound resembled that of 10,000 furnaces in full blast. Again it was like
the rattling of a regiment of musketry; sometimes it was like the roar
of the ocean along a rock-bound shore; and sometimes like the booming of
distant thunder. The detonations were heard along the shores of Hilo.
The eruptions were not intermittent, but continuous. Volumes of the
fusion were constantly ascending and descending like a jet d'eau. The
force which expelled these igneous columns from the orifice shivered
them into millions of fragments of unequal size, some of which would be
rising, some falling, some shooting off laterally, others describing
graceful curves; some moving in tangents, and some falling back in
vertical lines into the mouth of the crater. Every particle shone with
the brilliancy of Sirius, and all kinds of geometrical figures were
being formed and broken up. No tongue, no pen, no pencil can portray the
beauty, the grandeur, the terrible sublimity of the scene. To be
appreciated it must be felt.
During the night the scene surpassed all power of description. Vast
columns of lava at a white heat shot up continuously in the ever varying
forms of pillars, pyramids, cones, towers, turrets, spires, minarets,
etc., while the descending showers poured in one incessant cataract of
fire upon the rim of the crater down its burning throat and over the
surrounding area; each falling avalanche containing matter enough to
sink the proudest ship. A large fissure opening through the lower rim of
the crater gave vent to the molten flood which constantly poured out of
the orifice, and rolled down the mountain in a deep, broad river, at the
rate probably of ten miles an hour. This fiery stream we could trace all
the way down the mountain until it was hidden from the eye by its
windings in the forest, a distance of some thirty miles. The stream
shone with great brilliancy in the night, and a long horizontal drapery
of light hung over its whole course. But the great furnace on the
mountain was the all absorbing object."
May 6. "The great furnace on the mountain is still in terrible blast. No
decrease of activity, but rather an increase."
In July Mr. Coan again visited the flow. The fires had ceased. A kind of
pumice was very plentiful, beginning ten miles from the cone. It grew
more and more abundant till the source of the flow was reached where it
covered everything to the depth of five to ten feet.
Messrs. H. Kinney and Fuller visited the source of this flow in March.
Mr. Kinney described jets rising, from four hundred to eight hundred
feet and represented the existence of a deep unearthly, roar, comparable
to that of Niagara, heard a long distance away. The heat also created
terrific whirlwinds. The two gentlemen agreed that the diameter of the
crater from which the fountain rose was about 1,000 feet; the height of
the crater from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet; height of the
fountain two hundred to seven hundred feet, rarely below three hundred;
and the diameter of the fountain from two hundred to three hundred feet.
The jet sometimes became a Gothic spire of two hundred feet, then after
subsiding stood at three hundred feet with points comparable to
architectural ornaments. Rev. D. B. Lyman of Hilo confirmed these
estimates. The lava streams sometimes seem to have been two hundred to
three hundred feet thick.
Rev. E. P. Baker of Hilo
visited the scene of this overflow in 1889 and found a single red cone
in the midst of much pumice. There seemed to have been only one outlet.
The lower part of the stream consisted of aa changing to pahoehoe higher
up. Back to Contents
The
Eruption of 1852, described in verse by Titus Coan, and published in the
Friend
Hark ! hark ! while
yet 'tis dark
There's a deep,
rumbling sound,
As of spirits
underground,
Rolling rocks for
melting,
Gathering ore for
smelting.
Hark! while night is
still dark
In earth's hidden
caves,
Theres' a noise as
of waves
Muttering,
sputtering,
Splashing dashing,
Like the sound of
the surf,
Like hoof on the
turf.
A shake and a
shiver,
A quake and a
quiver.
Hush! Hush!
For a moment all is
still
On yon dark and
distant hill.
Nature stands all
awed and silent,
While stern Pluto
lifts his trident,
Seated on a sulphur
throne.
To us mortals all
unknown
In the distant
realms of wonder
Vulcan forges bolts
of thunder.
Squadrons Sables
There's a break and
a roar,
Like the wave on the
shore,
Like the crash of
dread thunder
Rending earth
asunder
Like the fiat of
God,
Shaking Earth with
His nod
Like the breath of
His ire
Setting Heaven on
fire;
Like the roaring on
high
When His chariots
draw nigh;
Like the trump's
direful blast
When Time' cycles
are past.
Smoke, fire, sulphur,
nitre,
Glaring brighter and
still brighter.
Bang, bang, bang!
clang, clang, clang!
Harsh, heavy,
shrill,
O'er mountain, dell
and hill,
Heaven's high
artillery rang.
Flaming meteors
dance around;
Burning whirlwinds
sweep the ground: A fiery hail from clouds above
Is scattered wide
o'er mountain wide.
See ! see !
Dread Typhoeus'
forge is sevenfold blast,
And lasting hills
dissolving fast.
The glowing furnace
fiercer glows;
The blood red river,
hotter flows;
Rocks rend, roar,
melt and disappear,
Mingling in wild and
mad career.
Clouds gather,
infold, gyrate, brighten,
Thicken, darken,
thunder, lighten,
Sigh the winds, and
howl and rave,
Driving hot cinders
o'er wildwood and wave.
From morn till
night, pale yellow light
Below; on high,
shrouds earth and sky.
Dark forests blaze
in the flame's red rays,
Then vanish from
sight, like a specter of night.
Upon the fiery
tempest's breath,
Desolation rolls on
death.
Ah, Pele, dread
Goddess of Fire,
Why flash thine eyes
with kindling ire?
Why stir afresh thy
everglowing coals,
While from thy
throat this burning river rolls?
Why wreathe thy
mythic head in smoke and flame?
And startle mortals
with thy fearful name?
Why rend thy hoary
locks and scatter thy silver hair?
Why sound thine
awful trumpet forth
Upon the midnight
air?
But, hush once more;
the scene is o'er;
For twice ten days
the fountain plays;
Then all is still;
o'er dell and hill:
The whirlwind's
sweep is lulled to sleep
Hell's burning
breath is quenched in death,
From murky cloud the
thunder loud
Has ceased to roar
on mount and shore,
The awful blast has
hurried past,
The fiery flood
obeyed its God;
"Thus far," He said,
"and here he stayed."
Back to Contents
Eruption of March, 1852, by J. Fuller in the Friend, May, 1852
On reaching the seat of activity, he writes thus: "Imagine yourself,
then, just ascended to the top of the above mentioned eminence. Before
you at a distance of two miles, rises the new formed crater in the midst
of fields of black, smoking lava, while from its centre there jets a
column of red hot lava to an immense height, threatening instant
annihilation to any presumptuous mortal who shall come within the reach
of its scathing influence. The crater may be 1,000 feet in diameter and
from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high. The column of
liquid lava which is constantly sustained in the air, is from two
hundred to five hundred feet high, and perhaps the highest jets may
reach as high as seven hundred feet ! There is a constant and rapid
succession of jets one within another, the masses falling outside and
cooling as they fall, form a sort of dark veil, through which the new
jets darting up with every degree of force and every variety of form
render this grand fire fountain one of the most magnificent objects that
human imagination can conceive of."
The finer products, ashes and pumice, fall in constant showers for some
miles around the vent. Besides several craters formed from earlier
eruptions there is a small one still steaming, which seems to have been
the first outbreak. Below it are several fountains constantly pouring
out an immense quantity of molten lava, which flows in a glowing stream
down the mountain slope. This flow came within seven miles of Hilo, says
the Editor. Back to Contents
Eruption of 1855
This commenced August 11th and continued for sixteen months. The amount
of lava ejected was the greatest of any of the flows seen by modern
observers. The only witnesses of the scene on record were Titus Coan, S.
E. Bishop and F. A. Weld. It started from a point 12,000 feet high and
nearer the summit than the preceding flow. The first thing seen was a
small point of light much like Sirius; it threw off coruscations of
light and soon resembled a full orbed sun. As the stream continued to
flow directly towards Hilo, the inhabitants grew more and more anxious
and made frequent trips to determine its progress. Mr. Coan went up
early in October. In three days he reached the place where it was three
miles wide. Usually it was broader, sometimes reaching a width of eight
miles.
"Early on Saturday the 6th," he says, "we were ascending our rugged
pathway amidst steam, smoke and heat which almost blinded and scathed
us. At ten we came to open orifices down which we looked into the fiery
river which rushed furiously beneath our feet. We had seen in the night
many lights like street lamps, glowing along the slope of the mountain
at considerable distances from each other, while the stream made its way
in a subterranean channel, traced only by these vents. From 10 A. M. and
onward these fiery vents were frequent, some of them measuring ten,
twenty, fifty or one hundred feet in diameter. In one place only, we saw
the river uncovered for thirty rods and making down a declivity of from
ten to twenty-five degrees. The scene was awful, the momentum
incredible, the fusion perfect (a white heat), and the velocity forty
miles an hour. The banks on each side of the stream were red-hot, jagged
and overhanging, adorned with burning stalactites and festooned with
immense quantities of filamentose or capillary glass, called Pele's
hair. From this point to the summit crater all was inexpressibly
interesting. Valve after valve opened as we went up, out of which issued
fire, smoke and brimstone, and down which we looked as into the caverns
of Pluto. The gases were so pungent that we had to use the greatest
caution, approaching a stream or an orificeon the windward side, and
watching every change or gyration of the breeze. Sometimes whirlwinds
would sweep along, loaded with deadly gases and threatening the unwary
traveller. After a hot and weary struggle over smoking masses of jagged
scoriae and slag, thrown in wild confusion into hills, cones and ridges,
and spread out over vast fields, we came at one P. M. to the terminal or
summit crater (not Mokuaweoweo) .
"This we found to be a low elongated cone, or rather a series of cones,
standing over a great fissure in the mountain. Mounting to the crest of
the highest cone, we expected to look down into a great sea of raging
lavas, but instead of this the throat of the crater, at the depth of one
hundred feet, was clogged with scoriae, cinders and ashes through which
the smoke and gases rushed up furiously from seams and holes. One
orifice within this cone was about twenty feet in diameter, and was
constantly sending up a dense column of blue and white smoke which
rolled off in masses and spread over all that part of the mountain,
darkening the sun and obscuring every object a few rods distant.
The summit cone which we ascended was about one hundred feet high, five
hundred long and three hundred broad at the base. Several other cones
below us were of the same form and general character, presenting the
appearance of smoking tumuli along the upper slope of the mountain.
“The molten stream first appears some ten miles below the fountain
crater."
The principal stream with all its windings was thought to be sixty miles
long, lying between the flows of 1843 and 1852. From his various trips
Mr. Coan had ascertained that a line of fissures extended from
Mokuaweoweo for five miles down to the place of this outbreak, along
which there were cones of scoriae and sand that had been thrown up at
various times.
The progress of the front of the stream, owing to the obstructions of
trees, depressions and irregularities, was very slow, not more than a
mile per week. When there were obstructions the edge of the flow would
become crusted, the lava behind would accumulate until the pressure
became too great to be withstood, and then the liquid would burst
through in a spurt and continue downwards till another set of
obstructions caused an accumulation and another break allowed a
discharge. Hence as one ascends any of the flows he seems to pass over a
series of rough terraces.
Such a stream will also become widened by lateral discharge into a
number of channels. After a free flowing for a while there may be much
hardening of the crust and several days of inactivity. "At length,
immense areas of the solidified lava, four, five or six miles above the
extremity, are again in motion; cones are uncapped, domes crack, hills
and ridges of scoriae move, and great slabs of lava are raised
vertically or tilted in every direction." October 22, seventy-two days
after the commencement of the eruption, the fountain still continued to
flow. Mr. Coan made another trip this time to the lower end of the
stream. A river of water below had become discolored with the
pyroligneous acid distilled from the burning trees and the water turned
black. He attempted several times to cross the stream. "The hardened
surface of the stream was swelling and heaving at innumerable points by
the accumulating masses and the upraised pressure of the lava below; and
valves were continually opening, out of which the molten flood gushed
and flowed in little streams on every side of us. Not a square rod could
be found on all this wide expanse, where the glowing fusion could not be
seen under our feet through holes and cracks in the superincumbent
stratum on which we were walking. The open pits and pools and streams we
avoided by zigzag course; but as we advanced these became more numerous
and intensely active, and the heat becoming unendurable we again beat a
retreat after having proceeded some thirty rods upon the stream. It may
seem strange to many that one should venture on such a fiery stream at
all, but you will understand that the greater part of the surface of the
stream was hardened to the depth of from six inches to two or three
feet; that the incandescent stream flowed nearly under this crust like
water under ice, but showing up through ten thousand fissures and
breaking up in countless pools. On the hardened parts we could walk,
though the heat was almost scorching, and the smoke and gases
suffocating. We could even tread on a fresh stream of lava only one hour
after it had poured from a boiling caldron, so soon does the lava harden
in contact with air."
Both Mr. Coan and Professor Dana are on record as saying that there must
have been fissures far down the mountain from which lava issued, as well
as from the source 12,000 feet high. The latter, however, does not speak
of them in his latest description of this flow, so that it may be
inferred that he had ceased to entertain that view.
March 6, 1856, Mr. Coan writes: "The great fire-fountain is still in
eruption and the terminus of the stream is only five miles from the
shore. The lava moves slowly along on the surface of the ground, and at
points where the quantity of lava is small, we dip it up with an iron
spoon held in the hand. During the last three weeks the stream has made
no progress towards Hilo, and we begin to hope that the supply at the
summit-fountain has diminished. There is, however, still much smoke at
the terminal crater." This hope became fact. The stream stopped at a
point about five miles above Hilo.
Mr. Coan visited this flow eight times during its history. On the 22nd
of October, 1856, he writes more fully about the supposed fissures: "A
fracture or fractures occurred near the summit of the mountain which
extends in an irregular line from the terminal point, say five miles
down the northeast slope of the mountain. From this serrated and yawning
fissure, from two to thirty yards wide, the molten flood rushed out and
spread laterally for four or five miles, filling the ravines, flowing
over the plains, and covering all those high regions, from ten to one or
two hundred feet deep. Along this extended fissure, elongated cones were
formed at the points of the greatest activity. These cones, appear as if
split through their larger diameter, the inner sides; being
perpendicular or overhanging, jagged and hung with stalactites, draped
with filamentous vitrifications, and encrusted with sulphur, sulphate of
lime and other salts.
"The outsides of these
cones are inclined planes, on an angle of forty or sixty degrees, and
composed of pumice, cinder, volcanic sand, tufa, etc. You will not,
however, understand that these semi-cones were once entire and that they
have been rent: they are simply masses of ridges of cinder and dross
deposited on each side of the fractures where the action is greatest. It
is all a new deposit. After you leave the region of open fissures, near
the summit of the mountain, all below appears to be on the surface"
Back to Contents
Appendix
Earthquakes in Hawaii
Hawaii is regarded as a land where earthquakes are frequent and
powerful. Since the invention of apparatus fitted to record the presence
of these shocks, and the attention paid to their study in Japan, and
under the auspices of the British Association For the Advancement of
Science, so great has been the advance in our knowledge of these
phenomena, that it is just to speak of the "New Seismology": whatever
had been written more than years ago is of slight consequence in the
comparison. At the direction of Professor Milne sixteen seismological
sites have been equipped with seismographs at many important lies all
over the world, and the reports from them studied and collated at the
Isle of Wight in England. One of these instruments has been established
at Sisal, near Ewa, on Oahu.
Little has been reported from this station to the public, save that it
served to allay apprehension at the time of the great earthquake in 1906
in San Francisco. There is a crying need for the establishment of a
Seismological Observatory near Kilauea, similar to the analogous
institution upon Vesuvius, where the phenomena connected with the
volcano can be observed, as well as those relating to earthquakes
generally. The director of the Vesuvian Observatory has been able to
send out authoritative warnings of disaster, which have been utilized by
the public like the storm predictions from the National Weather Bureau
at Washington. The Hawaiian volcanoes are fortunately situated at a
considerable distance from settlements, and people congregate to witness
eruptions rather than flee from them; but there is no part of the United
States where the study of volcanic and seismic phenomena can be better
prosecuted.
In the history of our volcanoes attention has been called to the
occurrence of earthquakes, just as visitors happened to have noted them.
A better record has been kept at Hilo by Mrs. Sarah J. Lyman, extracts
from which have been published from time to time. Although ascribed to
the Rev. D. B. Lyman, the first one of them is that published by Captain
Wilkes in his Narrative, stating what the disturbances were between 1833
and 1841. After that time the same lady continued her record down to the
end of 1885, when her life was ended. The family maintained the record
several years longer.
Three classes of seismic disturbances have been observed in Hawaii;
first, those connected with the volcanoes; second, those that have been
propagated by stresses in the earth away from the islands, sometimes
called tectonic; third, the sea waves, where the jar has been
communicated to the water of the ocean. Those of the second class are of
less account locally than the others. It is important that they should
be recorded by the seismographs and correlated with the same shocks in
other lands. The inhabitants of the Territory need not be apprehensive
of any seismic disaster, except those who live near the volcanoes of
Mauna Loa and Kilauea, or in the path of the sea waves.
Of the volcanic quakes, that of 1868, centering in Kau, is the most
important. It is esteemed as one of the most forcible series of shocks
connected with a volcano ever described. The statements respecting these
disturbances given in our account of the eruption of Mauna Loa in 1868
will recall their terrible nature.
All edifices, the trees ,animals and men were affected; and sea waves
were started at the coast. Many lives were lost. No observers in that
day attempted to determine the various elements of the quake; but its
connection with an eruption from Mauna Loa is now universally conceded.
As in the fable, it may be said that the mountain was groaning to be
delivered, and the birth was the deluge of lava shot up high into the
air and flowing to the sea. By this occurrence it was evident that some
of the eruptions from Mauna Loa were not of the quiet sort. Nineteen
years later another eruption from near by was preceded by earthquakes
numerous and violent, and still a third in 1907. And attention has been
called to many other similar eruptions coming from the bases of both
Mauna Loa and Kilauea in prehistoric times, which may have been equally
violent.
When the records of the seismograph at Sisal are published, it will be
possible to learn how important the tectonic quakes have been in our
archipelago. So far as known, none of this class of shocks have been
particularly severe.
Quite a number of the sea waves have made themselves felt among the
islands, and attention will be called to a few of them.
Earthquake Waves
On the 7th of November, 1837, there was an earthquake in Chile, and a
sea wave started by it was felt at the Hawaiian Islands; also at Tutuila
in the Samoan group. The phenomena observed at Hilo are thus described
by Rev. Titus Coan:
At about 7 P.M. the sea at Hilo was observed to retire far below its
usual low-water mark. In a few moments afterwards the water returned in
a gigantic wave, rushing to the shore with great velocity, and breaking
upon the beach with a noise like a peal of thunder. All the low grounds
in the neighborhood of the beach were instantly submerged, and a large
number of houses were swept away. So sudden and unexpected was the
catastrophe, that many of the inhabitants were engulphed in the flood,
and compelled to struggle for their lives. The sea remained upon the
land about fifteen minutes, when it retired beyond the line of low
water, and after a short interval returned again, but with less
violence. It afterwards continued to vibrate for a time, gradually
decreasing at each oscillation, until it attained its usual level.
The scene of distress which this phenomenon produced was great. Hundreds
of natives were at a meeting near the seashore, when the wave rushed
upon them and left them struggling amidst the wreck of their worldly
effects. Some of them were carried to sea, while others were dashed upon
the shore, surrounded by the fragments of their houses, which had been
broken to pieces, together with the timbers, frames, calabashes, etc.
Cries of distress came from all sides, as well from those who were
struggling for life, as those who had come down to their relief. Parents
were rushing to and fro, looking for their children, husbands for their
wives, children for their parents, each inquiring for the other, with
wailings and hallooings. The whole, combined with the roar of the sea,
rendered the scene one of thrilling interest. Fortunately an English
whaler, the Admiral Cockburn, of which James Lawrence was commander, was
lying in the bay at the time. He in a most praiseworthy manner lowered
his boats, and kept them cruising about the bay, in search of the
natives, many of whom were picked up, wearied and exhausted, and by this
timely aid their lives were preserved. Not a canoe was left on the shore
to assist in this work. Mr. Lawrence affirms that the water ran past his
ship at the rate of eight knots an hour, and that the soundings were
reduced from five to three and a half fathoms, which left a great part
of the bay dry.
Earthquake Wave of 1868
On the I3th of August, 1868, at 5:05 P.M. an earthquake was started off
the coast of Arica, Peru, said to have had a duration of ten minutes. At
5:32 P.M. the first of a series of waves from fifty to sixty feet high
rushed in upon the land, penetrating a considerable distance. J. E.
Hilgard published an account of these waves in the report of the Coast
Survey for 1869; and his conclusions were accepted and published by the
highest authorities. The wave was reported at Coquimbo, eight hundred
miles away, in three hours, Hawaii (Hilo) in fourteen hours and ten
minutes, in Japan upon the following day.
The same wave had been reported earlier at San Diego, San Francisco,
Cal., and Kodiak, Alaska, with the times respectively of ten hours and
fifty-five minutes, twelve hours and fifty-six minutes and twenty-two
hours, at the average of three hundred and sixty-nine, three hundred and
forty-eight and two hundred and eighty-two miles per hour, and distances
of 4,030, 4.480 and 6,200 miles. To reach Lyttleton, N.Z., and Sydney,
Australia, 6,120 and 7,440 miles, the time required was nineteen hours
and one minute and twenty-three hours and forty-one minutes at the rates
of 322 and 314 miles per hour. In 1880 I saw a placard upon a cocoanut
tree in Hilo, situated as much as fifteen feet above the sea level,
stating the fact that an earthquake wave was noted at that altitude upon
the date mentioned. The velocity of a sea wave depends both upon the
wave-length and the depth of the water. Knowing the wave length and
therefore what ought to be their free velocity, and knowing their actual
velocity by observation, the difference gives the retardation by
dragging; and from the retardation may be calculated the mean depth of
the ocean traversed. The results stated were a depth of 12,000 feet
between Japan and San Francisco, and 18,500 between Peru and Honolulu.
By a study of the facts as they were related to Hawaii it is apparent
that erroneous observations were relied upon. To reach Hilo, 5,460
miles, the waves moved at the rate of three hundred and eighty-five
miles per hour; to reach Honolulu, 5,580 miles, the rate was four
hundred and fifty-four miles.
Now the path of the wave from Arica was the same to both Hilo and
Honolulu; and there is a manifest incongruity in saying that the rate to
Hilo was three hundred and eighty-five and to Honolulu four hundred and
fifty-four miles per hour. The wave reached; Honolulu in twelve hours
and eighteen minutes, the greater distance by the same route, and Hilo
in fourteen hours and ten minutes, the less distance. I addressed an
inquiry to O. H. Tittman, the Superintendent of the Coast and Geodetic
Survey, and received the following reply:
"In reply to your inquiry of the 1 5th instant, concerning the
discrepancy in the times of the arrival of the earthquake wave from
Arica, Peru, at Hilo and Honolulu, I have to state that because the
disturbance reached the Hawaiian Islands near midnight and because the
time is given to whole hours only, it seems probable that no accurate
observations were there made upon this phenomenon. In Petermann's "Mittheilungen,"
Vol. 15, 1869, pages 222-226, Prof. Hochstetter has given the same
values in his collection of times at places where the earthquake wave
was felt. He notices discrepancy of the Hawaiian Islands values and uses
a mean between the two."
It is, of course, impracticable at this late date to discover what the
original records for Honolulu should have been, so as to be able to give
correct figures. It will be observed that the rates per hour for all the
localities except Honolulu fall below four hundred. Hence the table as
published by Professor Hilgard may be esteemed as correct with only one
exception. I think it better to eliminate the Honolulu observation
altogether, and with it the estimate of the greater depth of the ocean
between Hawaii. and Peru as compared with that upon the side towards
Australia. From the Advertiser published shortly after the event, it is
learned that between Aug. 7 and 18, 1868, this same wave arose to the
height of twelve feet upon the windward side of Maui. There are better
observations derived from the transmission of waves in later years from
which to draw conclusions. One such may have been the one passing Hilo
May 10, 1877, which originated in South America. The damage done by it
is graphically set forth in the following letter from Mr. Severance:
The account is in the form of an official report of Sheriff Severance,
addressed to Marshal W. C. Parke:
Dear Sir:
We have had a great disaster at Hilo. On Thursday
morning the 10th, at about 4 o'clock A. M., the sea in the bay was
seen to rise and fall in an unusual manner, and at 5 o'clock it
swept in, in a mighty wave, washing up and into nearly all the
stores in the front of the town, carrying off a great deal of lumber
and all the stone wall makai of the wharf. The perpendicular height
of the wave (as we have since ascertained by levelling with the
lamp-post on the wharf) was 12 feet 3 inches above the ordinary low
water mark.
But at Waiakea the damage was frightful; every house
within a hundred yards of the water was swept away. The steamboat
wharf and the storehouse. Spencer's storehouse, the bridge across
the stream, and all the dwelling houses were swept away in an
instant, and now lie a mass of ruins far inland. Five lives were
lost, and numbers bruised and had limbs broken. The body of one
woman was found by the boats off Honolii. The boats of the American
whaleship Pacific, Capt. Smithers, lying in the harbor, picked up
six people who were swimming for their lives in the Bay. The Pacific
was lying in 4 fathoms of water, but she grounded when the sea
receded, and then would be whirled round and round as the sea came
in again. All expected to see her drag ashore.
The sea continued to rise and fall all day. I timed
one of the tides in the morning about 7 o'clock, and from its lowest
ebb to its full flood was only about 4 minutes. It rose about 14
feet perpendicular height in that time. In the afternoon in the
space of one hour, the sea rose and fell three times with a height
above half tide of 7.10, 1-to-2 and 3 feet each time. Mr. Rose's tin
shop was floated off its foundations, and is now in the middle of
the street.
The poor people at Waiakea are in a sad state; houses
destroyed and utterly destitute; their goods and furniture scattered
far and wide on sea and land. The water was 3 inches deep in
Conway's store, when the 5 o'clock wave came in. The wave at Waiakea
must have had a perpendicular height of 16 feet, to have taken the
bridge and wharf where they now lie. The water swept completely over
Cocoanut Island, and the hospital there has disappeared. The oil of
the bark Pacific, stored in Spencer's storehouse ,has been nearly
all found scattered about among the bushes and trees, a long ways in
shore from the place where the storehouse stood.
There has been nothing like this tidal wave since the
year 1837, nearly 40 years ago, when many grass houses were
destroyed.
I have made a careful investigation of the extent of
the disaster, and find as follows, viz.: Thirty-seven dwelling
houses entirely destroyed; seventeen badly injured; five people
drowned and killed; seven badly injured; one hundred and sixty-three
left homeless and destitute; seventeen horses and mules drowned this
is exclusive of the government property. Sisson estimates his loss
(in lumber) at several thousand dollars. The total damage has been
estimated as high as $12,000 to $14,000, which is, I think, a low
estimate, as several thousand dollars worth of stores belonging to
the ship Josephine, and about thirty barrels of oil, of the Pacific,
are still to be accounted for.
Yours, in haste,
L. SEVERANCE
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