Hawai`i and Its Volcanoes, Part 2

This term is applied to an immense dome seventy-four by fifty three miles in its two diameters as measured at the sea level, and 13,650 feet in altitude. Its mass extends downwards more than 16,000 feet farther to the level of the submarine plain at the bottom of the sea upon which the whole Hawaiian Archipelago is situated. That would be a cone 30,000 feet in height and as much as a hundred miles wide within which are one or more conduits leading to the reservoir of lava which supplied the material for the various eruptions. It is probable that the cone may rest upon sediments of Tertiary age, like the sister island of Oahu.

The first word is equivalent to Mount, and the second signifies great or long. Some authors prefer to say Mount Loa rather than Mauna Loa. The natives call the caldera at the summit Mokuaweoweo. The great dome, so far as can be judged, is composed of overlapping sheets of basalt, both aa and pahoehoe. Those at the surface are of known age, or certainly younger than those that are deep seated. There are no large canyons upon its surface produced by the erosion of streams, because the deposition of the sheets is so recent. Above 10,000 feet there is scarcely any vegetation. The expanse is entirely composed of basalt showing evidences of many interlacing streams of lava. The surface is nearly level for the extent of four or five square miles. Mr. Ellis who explored Hawaii in 1823 has nothing to say of Mokuaweoweo, while he writes fully of Kilauea. Pele is located definitely at Kilauea. I have not yet discovered any native traditions respecting eruptions from the larger volcano. It may be that the earlier explorers were not aware of the character of Mauna Loa. Ellis represents it as covered by snow throughout the year. It is uninhabitable, and therefore its eruptions would not usually be fraught with disaster to the inhabitants, and thus would be scarcely mentioned in the traditions. When Hawai`i shall have been studied carefully it will be possible to give the sequence of several pre-historic eruptions. One of these is Keamoku, an expanse on the north side of the mountain adjacent to and underlying the flow of 1843. The fact that it is distinguished upon the Government map indicates that the surveyors were impressed by its recency. It starts from the cone of Kokoolau 8,000 feet high, and terminates at the altitude of 3,000 feet at the hill whose name is now applied distinctively to the flow itself. Its area is very much the same with that of the well known eruption of 1843, extending down hill for twenty-one miles, the first third of the way proceeding due north, and then to the northwest. The area of 1843 laps over the edge of Keamoku.

I find very nearly the same name applied to an aa flow on the opposite side of the mountain, along which the new Kau Volcano road runs for several miles. This is supposed to be connected with a broad stream starting just below Puu Ulaula seven miles east of Mokuaweoweo. Upon most of the maps this stream is represented to have the date of 1823, and to have been connected with the discharge from Kilauea of that date, described by Mr. Ellis. This gentleman, however, makes no allusion to the existence of any recent stream descending from Puu Ulaula in that year, nor does he have anything to say about eruptions from Mauna Loa. Back to Contents

Early Historic Eruptions

The first considerable knowledge of the Hawaiian Islands was acquired by Captain Cook in 1778-9. From the narrative illustrative of this expedition I find the following description of the features of a part of Hawaii, which all who are familiar with the island will recognize as truthful.

"The 13 coasts of Kaoo present a prospect of the most horrid and dreary kind, the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from the effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is everywhere covered with cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks, which seem to mark the course of a lava that has flowed, not many ages back, from the mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks like the mere dregs of a volcano. The projecting headland is composed of broken and craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another and terminating in sharp points." Back to Contents

The First Known Attempt to Ascend Mauna Loa

John Ledyard, the famous traveler, was one of the seamen of Captain Cook's party in 1779 when they were anchored off Kealakekua. I will quote the greater part of his narrative from A Journal of Captain Cook's last voyage to the Pacific Ocean and in quest of a northwest passage between Asia and America. Printed and sold by Nathaniel Patton, Hartford, Conn., 1783,

On the 26th of January I sent a billet on board to Cook, desiring his permission to make an excursion into the interior parts of the country, proposing, if practicable, to reach the famous peak that terminated the height of the island. My proposal was not only granted, but promoted by Cook, who very much wanted some information respecting that part of the island, particularly the peak, the tip of which is generally covered with snow and had excited great curiosity. He desired the gunner of the Resolution, the botanist sent out by Mr. Banks and Mr. Simeon Woodruff, to be of the party. He also procured us some attendants among the natives to assist us in carrying our baggage and directing us through the woods. It required some prudence to make a good equipment for this tour, for though we had the full heat of a tropical sun near the margin of the island, we knew we should experience a different temperament in the air the higher we advanced towards the peak, and that the transition would be sudden, if not extreme. We therefore took each of us a woolen blanket, and in general made some alteration in our dress, and we each took a bottle of brandy. Among the natives who were to attend us was a young chief whose name was O'Crany and two youths from among the commonalty. Our course lay eastward and northward from the town, and about two o'clock in the afternoon we set out. When we had got without the town, we met an old acquaintance of mine (who ought indeed to have been mentioned before). He was a middle aged man, and belonged to the order of their Mida or priesthood, his name was Kunneava. We saluted each other, and the old man asked with much impatient curiosity where we were going; when we had informed him he disapproved of our intention, told us that we could not go as far as we had proposed, and would have persuaded us to return; but finding we were determined in our resolves, he turned and accompanied us; about two miles without the town the land was level, and continued of one plain of little enclosures separated from each other by low broad walls. Whether this circumstance denoted separate property, or was done only to dispense with the lava that overspread the surface of the country, and of which the walls were composed, I cannot say, but probably it denotes a distinct possession. Some of these fields were planted, and others by their appearance were left fallow.

In some we saw the natives collecting the coarse grass that had grown upon it during the time it had lain unimproved, and burning it in detached heaps. The sweet potatoes are mostly raised here, and indeed are the principal object of their agriculture, but it requires an infinite deal of toil on account of the quantity of lava that remains on the land, notwithstanding what is used about the walls to come at the soil, and besides they have no implements of husbandry that we could make use of had the ground been free from the lava. If anything can recompense their labor it must be an exuberant soil, and a beneficent climate. We saw a few patches of sugar cane interspersed in moist places, which were but small. But the cane was the largest and as sweet as any we had ever seen; we also passed several groups of plantain trees.

These enclosed plantations extended about three miles from the town, near the back of which they commenced and were succeeded by what we called the open plantations. Here the land began to rise with a gentle ascent that continued about one mile, when it became abruptly steep. These were the plantations that contained the breadfruit trees.

After leaving the breadfruit forests we continued up the ascent to the distance of a mile and a half further, and found the land there covered with wild fern, among which our botanist found a new species. It was now near sundown, and being upon the skirts of these woods that so remarkably surrounded this island at a uniform distance of four or five miles from the shore, we concluded to halt, especially as there was a hut hard by that would afford us a better retreat during the night than what we might expect if we proceeded. When we reached the hut we found it inhabited by an elderly man, his wife and daughter, the emblem of innocent uninstructed beauty. They were somewhat discomposed at our appearance and equipment, and would have left their house through fear had not the Indians (natives) who accompanied us persuaded them otherwise, and at last reconciled them to us. We sat down together before the door, and from the height of the situation we had a complete retrospective view of our route, of the town, of part of the bay and one of our ships, besides an extensive prospect on the ocean, and a distant view of three of the neighboring islands.

It was exquisitely entertaining. Nature had bestowed her graces with her usual negligent sublimity. The town of Kireekakooa and our ship in the bay created the contrast of art as well as the cultivated ground below, and as every object was partly a novelty it transported as well as convinced.

As we had proposed remaining at this hut the night, and being willing to preserve what provisions we had ready dressed, we purchased a little pig and had him dressed by our host who rinding his account in his visitants bestirred himself and soon had it ready. After supper we had some of our brandy diluted with the mountain water, and we had so long been confined to the poor brackish water at the bay below that it was a kind of nectar to us. As soon as the sun set we found a considerable difference in the state of the air. At night a heavy dew fell and we felt it very chilly and had recourse to our blankets notwithstanding we were in the hut. The next morning when we came to enter the woods we found there had been a heavy rain though none of it had approached us notwithstanding we were within 200 yards of the skirts of the forest. And it seemed to be a matter of fact both from the information of the natives and our own observations that neither the rains or the dews descended lower than where the woods terminated, unless at the equinoxes or some periodical conjuncture, by which means the space between the woods and the shores were rendered warm and fit for the purposes of culture, and the sublimated vegetation of tropical productions.

We traversed these woods by a compass keeping a direct course for the peak, and was so happy the first day as to find a foot-path that trended nearly our due course by which means we traveled by estimation about 15 miles, and though it was no extraordinary march had circumstances been different, yet as we found them, we thought it a very great one for it was not only exceedingly miry and rough but the way was mostly an ascent, and we had been unused to walking, and especially to carrying such loads as we had. Our Indian companions were much more fatigued than we were, though they had nothing to carry, and what displeased us very much would not carry anything. The occasional delays of our botanical researches delayed us something. The sun had not set when we halted yet meeting with a situation that pleased us, and not being limited as to time we spent the remaining part of the day as humour dictated, some botanizing and those who had fowling pieces with them in shooting; for my part I could not but think the present appearance of our encampment claimed a part of our attention, and therefore set about some alterations and amendments. It was the trunk of a tree that had fell by the side of the path and lay with one end transversely over another tree that had fallen before in an opposite direction, and as it measured 22 feet in circumference and lay 4 feet from, the ground, it afforded very good shelter except at the sides which defect I supplied by large pieces of bark and a good quantity of boughs which rendered it very commodious, and we slept the night under it much better than we had done the preceding, notwithstanding there was a heavy dew and the air cold; the next morning we set out in good spirits hoping that day to reach the snowy peak, but we had not gone a mile forward before the path that had hitherto so much facilitated our progress began not only to take a direction southward of west but had been so little frequented as to be almost effaced. In this situation we consulted our Indian convoy, but to no purpose. We then advised among ourselves and at length concluded to proceed by the nearest rout without any beaten track, and went in this manner about 4 miles further finding the way even more steep and rough than we had yet experienced, but above all impeded by such impenetrable thickets as would render it impossible for us to proceed any further. We therefore abandoned our design and returning in our own track reached the retreat we had improved the last night, having been the whole day in walking about 10 miles, and had been very assiduous too. We found the country here as well as at the seashore universally overspread with lava, and also saw several subterranean excavations that had every appearance of past eruption and fire.

The next day about two o'clock in the afternoon we cleared the woods by our old rout, and by six o'clock reached the tents, having penetrated about 24 miles and we supposed within II of the peak. Our Indians were extremely fatigued though they had no baggage, and we were well convinced that though like the stag and the lion they appear fit for expedition and toil, yet like those animals they are fit for neither, while the humbly mule will persevere in both.

According to an attitude of the quadrant, the Peak of Owyhee is 35 miles distant from the surface of the water, and its perpendicular elevation nearly 2 miles. The island is exactly 90 leagues in circumference, is very nearly of a circular form, and rises on all sides in a moderate and pretty uniform ascent from the water to the Peak, which is sharp and caped, as I have before observed, with snow, which seems to be a new circumstance, and among us not altogether accounted for. As a truth and a phenomenon in natural philosophy I leave it to the world. Owyhee has every appearance in nature to suppose it once to have been a volcano. Its height, magnitude, shape and perhaps its situation indicate not only that, but that its original formation was effected by such a cause. The eastern side of the island is one continued bed of lava from the summit to the sea, and under the sea is 50 fathoms water some distance from the shore; and this side of the island utterly barren and devoid of even a single shrub. But there is no tradition among the inhabitants of any such circumstance. Back to Contents

Vancouver's Exploration

The next English expedition to the Hawaiian Islands after the death of Captain Cook was that commanded by George Vancouver in the year 1793-4, published in 1798. Vancouver had visited the islands before, having been connected with the staff of Captain Cook. King George the Third commissioned him to explore distant lands for a term of four years and to aid, so far as possible, in the improvement of the early nationalities. Thus he was the agent of the importation of domestic cattle into Hawaii. The Hawaiian King placed a kapu upon them for ten years, which proved effectual for their continuance. At the present date it is possible to obtain descendants of these early cattle just as lions and elephants may be hunted in Africa. Sheep were also turned loose in the forests by Vancouver, but they did not survive long because they were hunted down by dogs. Other domestic animals that have reverted to the wild state are swine, horses, dogs, poultry and turkeys.

Upon the eleventh of January, 1794, Vancouver observed columns of smoke arising from Kilauea, which were recognized as volcanic exhalations. After reaching the anchorage of Karakakooa parties were organized to explore the interior, under the direction of Archibald Menzies, the distinguished botanist. They first ascended Hualalai, or Worroway, which they found to be a volcano over 8,000 feet high, with several small well defined craters upon its summit, which were figured in the narrative. A second trip penetrated the forest between Hualalai and Mauna Loa for a distance of sixteen miles.

Finally the successful attempt was made to ascend Mauna Loa. Vancouver did not present the results of this trip in his narrative, for some unexplained reason. Being fully persuaded that the manuscript account of this exploration must be in existence, I authorized Dr. Henry Woodward, the well known English geologist, to search for it in London, and through his efforts have come into possession of a copy. Because of its great value as a record of the first attempt to climb this mountain by Europeans, and of the condition of the volcano at that time, it is herewith presented in full. Back to Contents

Archibald Menzies' Journal

Feb. 5, 1794. Having by the fifth finished the letters and packages for England, and delivered them to Capt. Vancouver to be forwarded in the "Doedalus" store ship which was on the point of sailing for New South Wales, I was desirous of making another attempt to gain the summit of Mownaroa: for this purpose I consulted with Tamaikamaika not only on the means but likewise on the best route for accomplishing such an object; when he assured me that the most likely way of succeeding was to ascend it from the South side of the Island, to which I must go by water in one of his canoes, and that he should take care to send with me a Chief well acquainted with the proper route, who should possess proper authority to protect me from any ill-usage in the journey and have ample power to procure provisions, attendants, or whatever else should be found necessary to accomplish so arduous an undertaking. With such flattering attention from the King, and such prospect as he represented of succeeding, I readily accepted his generous offer and cheerfully consigned myself to the care and guidance of Rookea the Chief whom he now appointed to conduct the Expedition, and to whom he delivered the strictest injunctions respecting his charge: the business being thus settled we prepared for our departure on the following day: in the meantime Lieut. Baker and Mr. McKenzie of The Discovery' and Mr. Haddington of The Chatham' expressed their desire of accompanying us and obtained leave from their Commanders to share in the pleasures as well as in the fatigues and hardships of this enterprise.

Feb. 6^th. Being all equipped we set out from the vessels in the afternoon of the 6th of February, with the Chief and about 20 paddlers, in a large double canoe belonging to the King, and before we left the Bay we were join'd by Mr. Howell who was to accompany us in another double canoe, with his own attendants.

We now proceeded along the shore to the southward for about four miles from Karakakooa, when we came to the Village of Haunanow, where we landed for the night. We expressed our desire of going further on but the Chief told us that there was not a place at the next village sufficient to accommodate so large a party, for which reason he wished us to remain here all night.

7^th. Next day we embarked again, by day-light, in the two canoes and got but a short distance when we came opposite to a small village where the Chief wanted us to land to breakfast, but this we overrul'd by declaring that we were not hungry as we wished to get on as far as we could in the cool of the morning: the next stage was, however, such a long one that we afterwards regretted not having taken his advice, for the coast was dreary and rocky and the shore so steep and rugged that we found no place where we could land till it was near noon, when we entered a small bay surrounded at the bottom by a sandy beach and groves of Cocoa Palm Trees well cropp'd with fruit: here we landed at a small village called Honomazino where the King ordered us to be supplied with a stock of Cocoa-Nuts for our journey, and upwards of 200 of them were packed up for that purpose, the greatest part of which were sent on men's backs across the side of the mountain to meet us in our ascent on the other side.

After refreshing and resting ourselves in the heat of the day we were anxious to proceed again in the cool of the evening but the natives informed us that there was too much wind to get around the next point with the canoes, so that we were obliged to remain here for the night.

The country round us at this place was so rugged, dreary and barren, that the natives were obliged to depend a good deal upon the sea for their sustenance. When the fishing canoes came into the Bay in the evening we had an opportunity of observing their manner of traffic with one another as the whole village, and people even from other villages flocked about them and a brisk market was kept up till they disposed of all their fish for small nails and bits of iron and sometimes we observed that they drove very hard bargains. Of these nails the fishermen make their fishhooks and no doubt are obliged, in their turn, to purchase potatoes, yams, cloth, &c from the Planters; thus we find that nails and bits of iron here answer all the purposes of money and circulate amongst the natives in the same way that gold and silver does with us.

The coast here is composed of huge masses of rocky lava so porous and cavernous that the sea pervades it and renders all the springs of water in the low ground and about the villages brakish, that we were obliged to send 4 or 5 miles up the country for good water, yet such is the force of habit that the natives could use this brakish water very freely.

8^th. At 8 next morning I observed the Barometer at high water mark where I found the Mercury stood at 30 in 15 pts and the Thermometer was, at the same time, 74°.

Before I left the 'Discovery' I compared my Barometer with the Marine Barometer on board and found them to agree in height pretty nearly; it was therefore settled on to register the height of the Marine Barometer in Karakakooa Bay every two hours between eight in the morning and six the evening, daily, during my absence, and at one or other of these hours I was to make my observations at the different stations on the Mountain, and by taking afterwards the difference of the corresponding observations made at the same instant of time, the result would certainly prove more accurate than the mode I adopted in my former journey, more especially in case of any particular change of weather taking place while we were ascending the Mountain.

After the whole party had breakfasted we left Honomazino in our canoes about nine in the morning and soon after passed the western part of the Island which is a dreary tract of the most rugged rocks of lava scattered here and there with some fishermen's huts. About noon we came to a small village named Manaka where found our Chief Rookea's residence and where we landed before his house at a small gape between rugged precipices against which the surges dashed and broke with such violence and agitation and with such horrific appearance, that even the idea of attempting it chilled us with the utmost dread. We, however, quietly submitted ourselves to their guidance and were highly pleased to see the extraordinary dexterity with which they managed this landing. Having placed their canoe in readiness before the gape they watched attentively for a particular surge which they knew would spend itself or be overcome in the recoil of the preceding surges before it could reach the rocks, and with this surge they dashed in, landed us upon a rock from which we scrambled up the precipice and in an instant about 50 or 60 of the natives at the word of command shouldered the canoe with everything in her, and clambering up the rugged steep, lodged her safely in a large Canoe-House upon the brink of the precipice, to our utmost astonishment. The other canoe was landed in the same manner, and as the Chief had some arrangements to make, we were obliged, in compliance with his request to remain at this dreary-looking place all night, and a situation more barren and rugged can scarcely be imagined. The kind civilities and good treatment received from the natives were, however, unremitting, and here, as if to make amends for the dreariness of the situation, they particularly exerted themselves by every means in their power to amuse and entertain us. The Chief and his people were equally eager and attentive in doing little acts of kindness and thereby assiduously displaying their unbounded hospitality.

On seeing near this village a large pile of stones built regularly up in a square form on the brink of the shore, curiosity prompted us to enquire what was the intent of it, when they informed us that it was erected to mark out the limits between the two districts of Akona and Kaoo, by which we found out that we had now reached the southern limits of Akona.

In the afternoon our attention was at one time directed to a number of young women who stripped themselves quite naked upon the summit of a pending cliff, and taking a short run vaulted one after another from the brink of it headlong into the sea, regardless of the foamed and agitated appearance of that element, and as it were setting its wildest commotions at defiance, for at this time the surf ran very high and dashed with furious force against the cliff, yet they dexterously disentangled themselves, and clambering up the rock again, repeated their leaps several times with seeming satisfaction till they were quite fatigued. The cliff was at least thirty feet high and so very rugged with packed rocks which were now and then deluged with a boisterous surf, that to look down the precipice was enough to intimidate any one not accustomed to such extraordinary feats of activity.

The Chief here packed up a quantity of dried fish to be carried with us, and presented each of us with a mat and a quantity of Island Cloth to lay on at night during our journey.

9^th. After an early breakfast on the morning of the 9th we were again launched in our canoes and proceeded to the Southward, keeping close along shore within the recoil of the surges where, tho the water is much agitated they conceive less danger of swamping as their canoes are much more lively upon it than much further out at sea; yet, notwithstanding our great confidence in their dexterity and management, we could hardly divest our minds of the idea of danger when beholding every moment the boisterous surges dashing with such furious violence against the rugged and cavernous cliffs high over ourheads and threatening us, as it were, every instant with overwhelming destruction, nor were the appearances of the surges breaking on the other side of us at times less awfull, as they threatened to deluge and waft us, in their foaming course towards the rocks. We, however, got through this wild navigation with no other inconvenience than that of our apprehensions, and getting all very wet.

This part of the coast is a dreary rugged tract composed of black porous rock of lava forming here and there grotesque arches, vaults and deep caverns into which the sea pushes by the violence and agitation of the waves with great force and frequently gushes, up again several yards inland through chinks and crevices with a. hissing noise, into the form of fountains which in the sunshine reflect all the colours of the rainbow. These often rivetted our attention as we went along and made us forget our own danger in admiring their beautiful and picturesque appearances.

We at last prevailed on them to quit the windings of the Shore where we were under so much dread, and steer a straighter course across some small bays none of which appeared fit for anchorage, from their being too much exposed, and early in the afternoon we landed at a small village called Pateence near the South point of the Island. We took up our abode in a house belonging to Cavahero, and they told us that the village, which consisted only of a few fishermen's huts, belong to Namahanna, Teamottoo's wife. The country between this and Manaka, the place we left in the morning, is one continued tract of loose, rough and picked lava, the most dreary and barren that can possibly be conceived, so that it would be a tedious and fatiguing journey to come from thence by land and such as even the natives themselves seldom attempt, for when they wish to visit the south side of the Island they generally come thus far in canoes from the west side, and leave them here till they return again, so that this forms a common port at which there were several arrivals to and fro in the course of the evening.

Our Chief advised us to remain here all night and as we knew so little of the country we were obliged to be entirely under his control. The afternoon was spent in covering up our canoes upon the beach, to preserve them from the sultry weather, and in preparing everything for our land expedition which was to commence the next morning. From hence we had a full view of the snowy summit of the mountain which shewd a remarkable glaring lustre from the sun's reflection. Some of the party that were despatched across the country from Honomazino met us with Cocoa Nuts.

10^th. After giving our several attendants strict charge of their respective burthens we left our canoes at Pateence and set out early on the morning of the l0th to prosecute the remainder of our journey by land. We had not travelled far when we found we had to ascend an elevated, steep, rugged, bank that took its rise at the south point of the Island and running along the southern side of Pateence Bay continued its direction inland behind the village: on gaining its summit, which was not an easy task, an extensive tract of the most luxurious pasture we had yet seen amongst these Islands rushed at once upon our sight, extending itself from the South point to a considerable distance inland: it was cropp'd with fine soft grass reaching up to our knees and naturally of a thick bottom that would afford excellent feeding for cattle where herds of them might live at their ease, if it was not for the scarcity of fresh water which we experienced in all the low grounds we had yet visited.

From the summit of this bank we pursued a path leading to the upper Plantations in a direct line towards Mownaroa, and as we advanced the natives pointed out to us, on both sides of our path, places where battles and skirmishes were fought in the late civil wars between the adherents of the present King and the party of Kaooa, the son of the late Tereoboo who was King of the Island in Capt. Cook's time. Tamaika-maika's warriors were headed by Tianna who at that time made use of fire-arms which obliged Kaooa's warriors to intrench themselves by digging small holes in the ground into which they squatted flat down at the flash of the muskets; many of these little intrenchments are still very conspicuous and they were pointed out to us by the natives with seeming satisfaction, as it was to them a new mode of eluding the destructive powers of firearms on plain ground. Here, then, we behold the first beginnings of fortification amongst these people, which they probably never thought of till these arms were introduced amongst them ,and we also see that the same mode of fighting naturally begets the same mode of defence in every part of the world. It was in these Wars that Tianna, by his knowledge of fire-arms gained so much ascendancy on the Island and became so powerful a Chief. We continued our ascent through a rich tract of land which appeared to have laid fallow or neglected ever since these wars, till we came to a grove of the Dooe Dooe tree and under their shade we stopped to rest and refresh ourselves, in the heat of the day. Close by us was a fine Plantation, belonging to Tamaika Maika, called Tahookoo where our Purveyor was particularly ordered to demand supplies for our journey, which he did, and only received one small Hog. This, however, did not come to our knowledge till after we had passed it, and when the Chief told me of it I made a show of noting it down in my little Memorandum Book in order to make it known to the King: this had the desired effect for it instantly spread through the crowd and from them to the Steward of the Plantation, whom we found extremely assiduous in supplying our wants on our return.

In the afternoon we resumed our journey, and soon after reached the upper Plantations, where instead of ascending directly up the Mountain as we expected, they led us across these Plantations, to the North Eastward at a distance of 5 or 6 miles from the shore, by a narrow winding path which in some places was very rugged, and seldom admitted more than one person at a time, so that we followed one another in a string and occupied a considerable space in length from the number of our own party and the crowds that followed us from village to village through curiosity and flocked to see us from far and near: this path we found to be the public road leading to the East end of the Island, and on the small eminences here and there we met clear'd spots for resting on, where the wearied travelers generally set down to chew sugar-cane and admire the surrounding prospect. Towards evening we descended into a fine fertile valley, and put up for the night at a village called Keeoraka on a rich Plantation belong to Cavahero, and we computed that we had this day travelled 18 or 20 miles, though we did not seem to be much more than half way that distance, in a straight line from where we set out in the morning, the path was so circuitous and winding, and we observed that a great deal of ground on both sides of our path lay waste, which appeared to have been cultivated not many years ago. This we ascribed to the late commotions on this part of the Island, as it is the common custom of these people to destroy the Plantations of the vanquished.

When we stoppd in the evening we were surrounded by such a concourse of people who pressd so close upon us that we could scarcely stir. Rookea, observing our situation, took a stick in his hand and soon clear'd a circle for us: he afterwards Tabood a large house for us and seemed to manage the natives with great authority. This was by far the most populous village we had yet met with since we left Karakakooa. Towards the dusk of the evening there fell some showers of rain which gave a gay and refreshing look to the most enchanting scenes of rural industry with which we were surrounded. The economy with which these people laid out and managed their ground, and the neatness with which they cultivated their little fields, made the whole Valley appear more like a rich garden than a Plantation: a stream of water which fell from the Mountain through the middle of it was ingeniously branchd off, on each side, to flood and fertilize the most distant fields at pleasure.

11^th. We set out early on the morning of the nth and ascended a steep verdant hill on the Eastern side of the Valley, from the summit of which we had a charming prospect of the country for a long way before us, presenting extensive and rich plantations industriously cultivated: as we passed on through them the natives pointed out one which they said the King had given to Tooworero soon after we left him on the Island: this was further confirmed to us by the vassals on it readily owning Tooworero as their Chief. We found the people everywhere busily employed in their little fields many of which were here croppd with Plantains and Bananas which had a ragged appearance from having little or no shelter, yet they bore fruit tolerably well. We seldom observed these vegetables cultivated so low down on the Western side of the Island where they generally occupy the verge of the Forest, a situation which for shelter, seems more congenial to their tender foliage. We observed here that they suffer many of their fields here and there to lay fallow and these, in general, were cropp'd with fine grass which they cut down for the purpose of covering their new planted fields of Taro or Yams, to preserve them from the powerful! heat of the sun.

After crossing these Plantations we came to a barren woody tract, without even a Hut or the least arable land for a considerable distance, and so arid that we could get no water to quench our thirst or refresh ourselves: this made us quite out of humour with our guides as the day was far advanced before we could get any breakfast, and by the time we got through this dreary tract we were ready to drop with hunger and fatigue.

At last we came to a romantic situation where there were a few huts on the verge of the forests: here under a small shade they spread a mat for us on which we threw ourselves down to rest till some refreshments were got ready and till the heat of the day was partly over. After taking our meal the Priests consecrated our shade by planting Taboo sticks round it, on account of our eating Pork, Cocoa Nuts and other prohibited provisions in it: this deprived us entirely of the society of the ladies, for though they set down on our mat before breakfast and were very chatty and cheering, yet nothing would induce them to approach it after their rods were stuck up: such is the powerfull influence of priestcraft amongst these people.

In the afternoon we continued our journey by the same path which still led along the upper Plantations, preserving nearly the same distance from the sea-coast, and was excessively rugged and woody, with here and there some intervening plantations arranged alternatively with these rugged forests which seemed to mark the latter courses of the Lava down the side of the Mountain. We stopped in the evening at a Plantation belonging to Tamaikamaika, called Poonaroo.

12^th. Next day we continued our journey through the same kind of picturesque country, and soon after setting out from Poonaroo we crossed a Plantation belonging to Trailooevee the Chief whose hand had been so badly wounded at Karakakooa before we came away, and the following circumstances will show the goodness of his heart and how thankfull he was for our attention towards him on that occasion. He had, it seems, sent before us particular orders for his Steward to wait upon us as we passed and make an offer of whatever his Plantation produced. The Steward executed his Master's mandate in the most friendly manner, and even pressed us with tears of gratitude in his eyes, to accept something, as otherwise his Master would think that he had not done his duty. This induced us to take a few things from him, after which we assured him that if we should stand in need of a further supply we would send back to him for it, with which he appeared quite satisfied. Little acts of hospitality and kindness are acceptable in all places and on all occasions, but nowhere more particularly so than to the way-worn travellers in remote regions and amongst uncivilized tribes where those little civilities may be considered as the spontaneous offerings of the heart and cannot fail to touch the feelings of those on whom they are conferred, with a more than common sense of gratitude and admiration.

Though we had much reason to be satisfied every step we went with the kind attentions and unbounded hospitality of the natives, yet we could not help being now a little out of temper with them at the great distance they were taking us, as it were, round the foot of the mountain till, in the afternoon we reached a fine Plantation, called Tepapala, belonging to the King, from which, they told us, we were to ascend the Mountain, and as the Chief had here to provide his last supplies of provisions for our journey up we were obliged to stop for the night, to allow him time for that purpose.

In the evening we sent back one of the natives to Karakakooa with a note to Capt. Vancouver, to relieve any anxiety he might be under respecting us and to acquaint him with the distance wehad come and the probable time it would still take us to accomplish our object.

We were now within a few miles of the Volcano of which there seemed to be, this day, a considerable eruption, and as the wind blew from that direction, the smoke dust and ashes arising from it proved very troublesome to our eyes in travelling with our faces towards it.

13^th. Before we set out on the morning of the I3th I observed the Barometer at eight, when the Mercury stood at 28 in 2O pts, which made our height at this place 1800 feet above the level of the sea. The Thermometer was, at the same time, 67°.

After breakfast, everything being got ready, and the party arranged, we continued our march through the Plantation for two or three miles further and then began our ascent up the South East side of Mauna-roa, in an easy slanting direction, passing through groves of trees and clear spots, alternately, by a narrow rugged path without meeting any more cultivated ground, after we quitted the Plantation of Tepapala, or any houses till, towards sun-set, when we came to two or three old huts where our guides told us we must encamp for the night. The Chief no longer depended on his own knowledge of the path but brought men with him from the last Plantation to conduct the whole party up the Mountain which now lay between us and Karakakooa: we had the Volcano to our right most part of this day and in the forenoon the smoke and ashes arising from it made the air very thick, which at times proved very tormenting to our eyes.

At sun-set the Thermometer was at 54° and the Barometer stood at 26 in 50 pts which made our height from the sea 3,510 feet.

14^th. At sun-rise next morning the Thermometer was so low as 41°, which was lower by two degrees than we found it near the upper edge of the wood on Whararai at the same time of the day, and yet we were not here advanced half way up the woody region of the Mountain. Whether this diffusion of cold much lower down be owing to there being but little wood on this side of the mountain or to its being a much greater body than Whararai, I cannot take upon me to say, as I have not sufficient data to determine, but the air was at this time so chilly, and the natives complained so much of the cold that we did not stir from the place of our encampment till after breakfast when we again set forward up the Mountain in a reversed oblique direction to what we came the day before, but in so winding and circuitous a manner, and through such pathless and rugged tracts, avoiding the lumps of forests here and there, that had we not had good guides with us we should have met with insurmountable difficulties.

We had sight now and then of the lower edge of the snow which did not appear to be far above us: we therefore began to entertain the most sanguine hopes of reaching it at least, should we not be able to accomplish the full extent of our object in getting to the summit. In the afternoon we turned our faces more directly up the mountain when we found the ascent very steep and rugged and consequently more fatiguing. Towards evening we reached the upper verge of the forest, nearly over Tepapala, where we encamped for the conveniency of having wood at hand to burn and erect our huts with. The natives having pitched upon a clear spot overgrown only with strong tall grass, they all set to work, and in the course of about two hours erected a small village of huts sufficient to shelter themselves and us comfortably for the night. These huts tho' finished with such hurry were neatly constructed and well thatched all over with long grass: a large one was built in the middle of the village for us to eat and set in, besides a small one for each of us to sleep in, where they spread our bedding on a thick layer of long grass, so that we enjoyed our repose comfortably as we could wish.

While this business was going forward one of the gentlemen laying down his knife carelessly had it stole from him: this was made known to Rookea, who immediately caused diligent search to be made for it and made such a stir about it amongst the whole party that it was soon found again, and one of the strangers who followed us up was suspected of having conceald it, for which the Chief was in such a rage at him, for this act of dishonesty that he would certaintly have put an end to his existence, on the spot; by plunging the knife into his body, had we not interfered at the moment he had his hand lifted over him to commit the horrid deed: he then peremptorily ordered him to quit the encampment and not to show his face again amongst the party.

This was the only instance of an attempt to pilfer from us the least article during the whole journey, though we were often surrounded by immense crowds, and even at this time, what with men and women who followed us up the mountain through curiosity, and our own attendants, who carried bedding, water, and provisions of every kind for themselves and us we were very little short of a hundred people in the party.

In this day's march we saw many strange-looking plants different from any we had before observed, but very few of them being in either flower or seed it was not possible to make out what they were. Near our encampment I found a large beautiful species of Vicia clambering up amongst the thickets in full bloom.

Being now at the upper edge of the forest I observed the Barometer at six in the evening, when it stood at 23 in 73 pts which is equal to 6,500 ft. in altitude, and this may be considered as the height at which the wood ceases to grow upon this immense mountain. The Thermometer, observed at the same time, was at 41°, and as we had heated ourselves a good deal in this day's march up the mountain we felt the air after sunset remarkably chilly and cold, which induced us to keep large fires burning near our huts during the whole night: notwithstanding this precaution many of the natives were so restless with the cold & continued coughing that they enjoyed very little repose, and not indeed without cause, for when we got up next morning the Thermometer was at 28° and the grass which grew about our huts was so stiff and whitened by hoar frost, and the earth that was anywise moist or swampy was encrusted with icy concretions about our encampment.

The frost, therefore, must have been keen during the night time, and from this circumstance I think we may consider the upper edge of the wood as the lower line of congelation upon this mountain, but meeting with it so low down as we here did, and that, too, on a tropical mountain, so closely surrounded by the mild temperature of the sea-air, will no doubt stagger the belief of those who have been led to consider the lower line of congelation within the tropics as having a much greater altitude even in continental regions which are always allowed to be colder than Islands of moderate size.

15^th. The natives, who were all bare-footed, could not stir out of their huts in the morning, until after breakfast when the cheering influence of the sun dispersed the frost, but they greatly dreaded its consequences higher up the mountain, where they said the cold was so intense that it would certainly kill us and them too, and they described its effects by contracting and shivering themselves and cautioned us very strongly against going higher up or exposing ourselves and them to such danger: even the old Chief Rookea was so strongly prepossessed of this opinion that he now entreated us in the most earnest manner to relinquish the idea of going higher, for that he and several others were already nearly overcome with the fatigue of the journey, and that the cold on the mountain would kill them. We endeavored to sooth their minds by promising them that we should not attempt to go higher up than the edge of the snow which we did not conceive to be far from us, and after accomplishing that, which we should undoubtedly be able to do, in the heat of the day, we should return again to the encampment in the evening. They appeared so far satisfied with this declaration that we set out after breakfast, followed by the whole party, in a direct line up the mountain, but we soon found that many of them came on so slow and reluctantly that about ten in the forenoon we proposed to the Chief that he and most of the party should return back and encamp on the edge of the forest whilst we should go on with the guides and a few stout volunteers of the natives to carry some little refreshment and some of our bedding to wrap round us and them in case the cold should be found too powerfull to withstand. The Chief, finding his former entreaties of no avail, readily agreed to this proposal, and parted with us with tears in his eyes, after he and our guides had fixed upon the place where they were to wait for our return.

Having made this arrangement we continued our progress up the rugged steep which now became naked, dreary, and barren, with only here and there little tufts of grass in the crevises of the rocks: by noon finding that vegetation had entirely ceased, not a blade of grass, moss, or even lichen was to be seen anywhere around us for some time, I observed the Barometer to ascertain our height, when I found it was 2oin 55pts which is equal to 10543 feet above the level of the sea, so that this may be considered as the upper line of vegetation, or rather a little above it, on this mountain, but whether this was occasioned by the want of soil of which there was nothing but volcanic dreggs, or the particular rarefaction and temperature of the air at this height being inimical to vegetation, I cannot take upon me to say, though the latter, I think, is most probable.

While we were resting and refreshing ourselves after making these observations, one of the natives, who struggled higher up the mountain, came running back to us with snow in his hand, and though we were much fatigued, for the ascent was very steep, yet this gave us fresh encouragement and we continued to ascend till we passed several patches of snow, when in the evening, finding that we were not likely to gain the summit of the mountain with daylight, for every height seemed lengthening as we went on, we did not conceive it prudent to go far into the snow and therefore stopd short to consult with one another on what was to be done, whether we should go back to the encampment for the night and come up next day better provided, or whether we should venture to remain where we were all night, at the mercy of the weather on the bleak slope of this immense mountain, and on the small pittance of provisions we had with us? Everyone was so fatigued with this day's journey, for we made uncommon exertions in the expectation of gaining our object, that the dreadof descending and ascending again such a rugged steep made us, at all hazards, prefer the latter.

At this time one of the gentlemen, Mr. Haddington, who went higher up amongst the snow, accompanied by one of the natives, in expectation of reaching the summit, returned to us so overpowerd with fatigue that he was taken very ill: in this state we dreaded the consequence of his remaining with us all night, and after giving him some little refreshment, we sent him off before he coold or stiffend with the cold, to the encampment, attended by two of the natives, and we were happy afterwards to find that he reached it in due time, and fortunately recovered.

As we had now taken up our abode at the lower edge of the snow I observed the Barometer at six in the evening, when it stood at I9 in 80 pts which in altitude is equal to 11,515 feet, and the Thermometer at the same time was at 33°.

We were not, as might naturally be expected, at this time, without our apprehensions that our constitutions which were for some time inurd to the searching heats of a tropical climate below, would be greatly affected by this sudden transition to the upper snowy region of the Mountain, for since we began our ascent we may be said to have gone through all the variety of climates between the Equator and the Pole. We quitted the tropical plantations below and came through the vast forest which surrounds the middle region of the Mountain and which may justly be considered as its temperate zone, and now we are stationed for the night within the verge of the frigid zone of this immense peak, which in this way may be aptly compared to one of our Hemispheres, and yet, after all, we were so inconsiderate of our own safety as not to make any particular provision of warm clothing to prevent the banefull effects of this sudden change: it happened, however, very fortunate that the weather proved mild and favourable all the while, so that we did not suffer so much inconvenience by this quick transition from the tropical regions to this frigid zone as might be apprehended.

After the excessive perspiration we underwent in this fatiguing day's journey, clambering up a steep rugged ascent wholly exposed to the influence of the sun in the heat of the day, it was necessary to take every precaution in our power to prevent numbness and stiffness of our limbs by exercise and continually moving about to keep ourselves warm, for we had nothing here wherewith we could keep up a fire, and all the provisions we had remaining was a small quantity of chocolate, a few ship's biscuits and near a quart of rum, together with a few Cocoa Nuts: of these articles we carefully preserved the best half for next day,and divided the other half as equal as we could amongst the party which was now about a dozen in number. We managed to boil the chocolate in a tin pot over a small fire made of our walking sticks, and each had his share of it warm, with a small quantity of rum in it, before he went to bed. We had no other water than what we melted from the snow, which we thought greatly improvd the chocolate.

For our bed we made choice of a flat even rock on which we could all huddle close together, and after marking out the exact space we should occupy, of it, we raised a small parapet round it, with the Lava, to break off the wind which after sunset blew very keen and penetrating: all the bed clothes we hitherto required were a few folds of the Sandwich Island Cloth over us, with a mat under us which was found sufficiently comfortable in the lower regions, but this night, after spreading a mat on the bare rock, as it was agreed we should all sleep together to keep ourselves warm, we joined together everything we had for a general covering, made pillows of the hard lava, and in this was passed the night, tolerably comfortable, though we could not sleep much, nor was it indeed to be expected. At this time, so many thousand feet high, reclined on the hard rock for our bed, with no other shelter than the grand canopy of heaven our minds were variously occupied, sometimes in meditating on the dreadful consequences of a snowstorm coming on whilst we were thus situated: at other times in contemplating the awfull & extended scene round us where the most profound stillness subsisted the whole night, not even interrupted by the least chirp of a bird or an insect. The moon rose out of the sea at an immense distance and her orb appeared uncommonly large and brilliant, and the sky being perfectly clear overhead, the assemblage of stars appeard very numerous and shone with unusual brightness. These led the imagination to the utmost stretch and afforded objects of both wonder and admiration.

16^th. Next morning, at sun-rise, the Thermometer was at 26° and the air was excessively keen and piercing: we made a scanty meal on the remainder of our provision, before we set out, but for want of fuel, had the greatest difficulty in getting our chocolate boiled, though we burnt mats and everything we could think of. Those of the natives who appeared less able to withstand the cold or further fatigue were sent down to the Encampment, and at the same time we set forward with the rest of them, up the Mountain, carrying with us the remainder of the liquor and a few Cocoa Nuts as our only resource of refreshment in case of emergencies. As we went on we soon found the ascent become less steep and everywhere chequered over with large patches of snow which was so .hard that we walked over it with ease, and we marched a pretty quick pace to keep ourselves warm. We found the summit of the mountain nearly flat for several miles, strewd over with huge lumps of loose lava, and here and there deep snow. About 11 in the forenoon we arrived at the mouth of an immense crater at least three miles in circumference, and looking round us we conceived the western edge of it to be the highest part of the mountain. I was therefore desirous to make that the place of observation with the Barometer, but being on the south side of the crater, to get to this eminence we had to cross over a large hollow full of hideous chinks and chasms in all directions, and strewd over with large masses of broken and peeked lava in irregular piles, exhibiting the most rugged and disruptive appearance that can possibly be conceived. Mr. Howell's shoes being already cut and torn in pieces with the lava, and his strength being much exhausted with fatigue, he declined attempting this dreadful place: we therefore left him and the natives on the South side of it, to wait our return, while Mr. Baker, Mr. McKenzie, and myself, and the servant who carried the Barometer, crossed over this rugged hollow after a hard and persevering struggle, and by noon got to the highest part of the mountain, on the western brink of the great crater, where I observed the Barometer and found the Quicksilver stood at 18 in 40 pts, and that on board 'The Discovery' at Karakakooa Bay, observed at the same instant of time, was found to be in 30 in 16 pts so that the difference is 11 in 76 pts, which will make the height of this immense mountain 13,634 feet above the level of the sea; but it is necessary to observe that the correction for the temperature of the atmosphere has not been allowed for in this calculation nor at any other station upon the mountain, which will make some difference in the result of the observations. The Thermometer here was at 62°. Mowna-Kaah bore by compass North by East of us; Highland of Wowee North West by North; and Whararai, which appeared under us like a hilloc, bore North West by West. I regretted much not having a spirit-level or some other instrument to ascertain whether this mountain or Mowna-Kaah is the highest, though from the Peak of the latter being at this time more whitened over with snow, I am inclined to think it would have the pre-eminence in this respect, to Mowna-roa.

The sides of the Crater (which was, as near as we could guess, about a mile in diameter), were quite perpendicular and, as we conjectured, about 400 yards in height, all around, excepting opposite to the hollow already mentioned, where the height was much less: the bottom of it was quite flat, being filled up with lava with a wavy roughness on its surface, apparently in the state in which it coold in this immense furnace. At the edge of it we observed some smoke in two or three places which we conceived to issue from hot springs, as on our way back to the party we visited the entrance to a cavern out of which there issued a very hot stream. In undergoing our struggle again across the rugged hollow we all felt less or more exhausted with fatigue, but Mr. Baker in particular became so weak and faint, that we were obliged to stop for him two or three times till he recovered his strength, and when we came back to the place where we left Mr. Howell and the natives, we found only two of the latter in waiting for us, faithful (poor fellows) to their trust, though shivering with the cold at the risque of their lives, and patiently enduring the pangs of both hunger and thirst; but when they informed us that Mr. Howell and the rest of the natives had gone off for the encampment, and had carried away with them the small quantity of liquor which we had carefully preservd for emergencies, it sounded like the knell of death in our eyes, and we could not help blaming Mr. Howell for thus deserting us; but the absence of our cordial, on which we had built our only hope of cheering comfort to enable us to go through the long journey still before us afflicted us most: thus overwhelmed, spiritless & faint, we threw ourselves down upon the bare rocks and for some moments revolved our melancholy situation in silence. The distance we were from the party, which was considerably more than half the height of the mountain; the ruggedness and steepness of the declivity; and our weakness and inability to undergo fatigue without some miraculous support, all obtruded themselves on our minds in the most gastly shapes. On further enquiry we found that our trusty friends had still a reserve of three Cocoa Nuts: the liquor of these we gradually sipt and it greatly revivd us, and after eating some of the kernels which were carefully divided amongst us, we set out on our return to the encampment where we were so fortunate as to arrive safe at ten at night, after the most persevering and hazardous struggle that can possibly be conceived. Back to Contents

Other Statements

The natives of Captain Wilkes' party in 1841 stated that there had been an eruption from the north Pohaku o Hanalei sixty years earlier, or about 1780. This accords with the specific statement of Keaweehu the bird catcher and guide who said there had been an eruption upon the mountain shortly after the death of Captain Cook.

John Turnbull in his narrative of a voyage around the world from 1800 to 1804, says that as he was leaving Karakakooa, January 21, 1803, he had a full view of some eruptions from the volcanic center of the island of Owhyhee. This must have been upon the west or north side of Mokuaweoweo. He adds that "many parts of the surface of the island are covered with lava, calcined stones, black dust and ashes emitted by former eruptions." An indefinite statement was made by G. Poulett Scrope in his classic work upon volcanoes published in 1825. Upon his map he colors the Hawaiian Archipelago as volcanic: he says nothing of the observations of Ellis which were the only testimony from observations made on the island before that date; but remarks that navigators in the Pacific Ocean had seen lava flowing down the sides of Mauna Loa. Whether he made reference to the two instances quoted cannot be proved. It is very probable that Mokuaweoweo showed less activity after 1780 and before 1832 than in the decades since. Back to Contents

Mokuaweoweo Between 1832 And 1843

Rev. Joseph Goodrich is authority for the statement that lava flowed from several vents about the summit on June 20, 1832. Light was observed from Lahaina on Maui, a hundred miles to the northwest.

Lava was seen coming out of the sides of the mountain in different places. Discharges of red hot lava were seen on every side of the mountain. This would seem to indicate that these flows were like all the later ones, not from the summit, but from some weak spot lower down. The reflection of fire upon the clouds at the first was probably regarded as evidence of a flow from the summit. Earthquakes were noted on Hawaii during the summer and quite an important display of activity was manifested at Kilauea, probably a few months earlier (Jan. 12).

The impression prevails that these eruptions from Mokuaweoweo and Kilauea were simultaneous; and to reach this conclusion we must believe that the writing Jan. was a printer's error for June, in the account of Kilauea.

The records are meagre with respect to the location of this flow. The Government map shows a small area upon the south side of the caldera, and close to it, with the label of 1832. I have questioned everybody as to the authority for this representation, and no one connected with the Survey can give the information. Our doubt respecting this reference comes from the unusual position immediately adjacent to Mokuaweoweo. None of the eruptions on record later are so situated; they are lower down. Mr. Green refers its altitude to 13,000 feet in a table, but makes no remark concerning it in his text. The light was seen at Lahaina by Mr. Goodrich. That might have been the illumination always seen at the beginning of every flow. If the discharge was upon the south side it would not be very conspicuous from Maui. Mr. E. D. Baldwin suggests that there is a flow of recent lava, judging from its appearance, just inside o the great prehistoric Keamuku flow, arising near the beginning of the 1852 stream, which would have been visible from Lahaina, and might possibly have been erupted at this time. Keamoku is also well situated to answer the conditions even better, should the flow have been sufficiently recent. In 1834 the summit was visited by Dr. David Douglas, an exploring naturalist. Some of his statements have been discredited because of apparent exaggeration of the terrific activity of Mokuaweoweo.

He used instruments for the determination of altitudes and areas. He represented that there were great chasms in the pit that he could not fathom, even with a good glass when the air was clear. Upon the east side he used a line and plummet, and obtained the figure of 1,270 feet for the height of the precipice. The southern part of the crater presented an old looking lava. He heard hissing sounds apparently connected with internal fire. The greatest portion of this huge dome was said to be a gigantic mass of slag, scoriae and ashes.

Dr. Douglas lost his life shortly after his return from Mokuaweoweo. As his remains were found in a pit where wild cattle were entrapped it was supposed at first that he had accidentally fallen into it and was gored to death; but recently it has been ascertained that he had been thrown into this pit Jan. 27, 1834, by a bullock hunter named Ned Gurney, an Australian convict. This statement comes from Bolabola, an Hawaiian who was ten years old at the time of the homicide. He and his parents were intimidated by Gurney, so that fifty or sixty years passed before he was willing to testify to the nature of the transaction.

S. E. Bishop says of this locality: In March, 1836, I looked into the pit where David Douglas perished. It was close to the inland trail from Waimea to Laupahoehoe, on the N. N. E. side of Mauna Kea, ten or fifteen miles northwest of Laupahoehoe and in the woods. Back to Contents

The Wilkes Party Upon Mauna Loa

The most elaborate attempt to take observations upon Mauna Loa was that of the United States exploring expedition in 1840-41. Captain Wilkes, the officer in command of the expedition, wished to apply the best apparatus of his time for the determination of geodetic positions and altitudes besides observing the volcanic phenomena and mapping the country.

His ship anchored at Hilo. The party started December 14, 1840, and the last of them returned to Hilo, Jan. 23, 1841, making an absence of fortytwo days. Twenty-eight days were spent upon Mauna Loa; six days were required to make the ascent and two for the descent to Kilauea. At the beginning the company was to be compared to a caravan. It consisted of two hundred bearers of burdens, forty hogs, a bullock and bullock hunter, fifty bearers of poi, twentyfive with calabashes of different shapes and sizes, from six inches to two feet in diameter. Some of the bearers carried the scientific apparatus, others parts of the house to be erected on the summit, tents, knapsacks and culinary utensils. There were lame horses and as many hangers on as there were laborers. The natives moved under the direction of Dr. G. P. Judd, without whose help the expedition would have been a failure. After the start thirty more natives were added to the company so as to equalize the burdens.

After passing Kilauea the number of the party was somewhat reduced, but there were still three hundred persons in all to be provided with food and water. Sickness and accidents led to the establishment of the Recruiting Station or hospital at the altitude of 9,745 feet. All the party experienced more or less of mountain sickness. The final encampment was on the edge of the pit of Mokuaweoweo, and the party suffered much from the inclement weather. There were a dozen separate tents and houses, all surrounded by a high stone wall. These are shown in Plate16A. Fifty men were detailed from the vessel to complete the undertaking. The serviceable natives returned down the mountain after the necessary articles had been brought up, and came back after the termination of the observations in order to transport this valuable apparatus back to the ship.

The following facts were stated about the mountain: Its whole area was of lava, chiefly of very ancient date, rough and seemingly indestructible, made up of streams that had flowed from the central vents for many ages. Both pahoehoe and clinkers (aa) abounded. Wilkes concluded that the clinkers were formed in the great pit where they were broken and afterwards ejected with the more fluid material. Their progress would have continued till the increased bulk and attendant friction arrested the stream. Pahoehoe seemed to have flowed from the clinker masses that had been stranded. The crater was likened to an immense caldron, boiling over the rim, and discharging the molten mass and scoria which had floated on its top.

From the plan of Mokuaweoweo as given by Wilkes, Plate I7A, the following points may be made. The central part is the deepest, seven hundred and eighty-four feet by the west bank and four hundred and seventy feet by the east. This part is 9,000 feet in diameter nearly circular. The bottom is flat, with ridges from ten to fifty feet high, alternating with deep chasms and pahoehoe. Skirting this pit on both the north and south sides are lunate platforms apparently two-thirds as high as the summit rim, both together having an area perhaps half that of the main depression, and their outer rims coincide with the outline of the whole caldera. Just outside of both are smaller pits, the northern one two hundred feet and the southern nearly three hundred feet in diameter. The last has the name of Pohaku o Hanalei from Wilkes, showing seventy layers of basalt in the walls, and a cooled stream of lava that came from the larger crater. A smaller pit-crater is mapped to the south. There are many deep fissures about these pits and the lava has a very fresh appearance, being suggestive of obsidian. From the Pohaku o Hanalei a great steam crack points southerly. The highest point in the rim is opposite the encampment, with the altitude of 13,780 feet, three hundred and forty feet higher than at the station, which had the name of Pendulum Peak. Mauna Kea proved to be one hundred and ninety-three feet higher than Mauna Loa. Water boiled at 187° F. at Pendulum Peak. For some reason the main axis of Mokuaweoweo was placed at N. and S. instead of N. 26 E. It differed from Kilauea in the absence of a black ledge and a boiling lake and the evidences of heat were scant. There was one cinder cone at least upon the floor. Sodium and calcium sulphates, magnesium and calcium carbonates, ammonium sulphates and sulphurous gases were met with in the pit.

The clinkers were compared to the scoriae from a foundry, in size from one to ten feet square, armed on all sides with sharp points. The fragments are loose with a considerable quantity of the vitreous lava mixed with them.

As to origin, both the smooth and rough varieties are conceived to have been ejected in a fluid state from the terminal (summit) crater. The "clinkers" are seldom found in heaps, but lie extended in beds for miles in length, sometimes a mile wide, and occasionally raised from ten to twenty feet above the general slope of the mountain. The "clinkers" were formed in the crater itself, broken up by contending forces, ejected with the more fluid lava, which carried it down the mountain slope until arrested by the accumulating weight or by the excessive friction. They were streams of lava: and this opinion was fortified by the observation that pahoehoe came out from underneath the masses of clinkers wherever they had stopped. The crater was an immense caldron boiling over the rim. No facts are presented in favor of this view, and the idea was evidently borrowed from the conception of what a volcano should be. There had been no signal eruption previous to 1840 when the characteristic stream flows of this mountain had been developed. Back to Contents

Eruption of 1843

According to Dr. Andrews, smoke was first seen from Hilo above the summit, January 9th. The next night a brilliant light appeared above the summit like a beacon fire. By day great volumes of smoke were poured forth, and for a week there was a fire by night. The summit fire was then transferred to a point near the ridge leading towards Hilo about 11,000 feet high. The lava flowed from two craters toward Mauna Kea, according to Mr. Coan, who ascended to the source of the flow. It was supposed at first that the eruption was an overflow from' the summit: this was before the behavior of the flows from very high up the mountain was understood. The lava spread out broadly from about the altitude of 11,000 feet to the base of the dome, and then rolled in a northwesterly direction towards Kawaihae more than sixteen miles. The lowest point of the stream in the saddle between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea was near Kalaieha or the Humuula sheep station. Though so stated by Mr. Coan, the map does not indicate that a branch of the stream was directed toward Hilo. The greatest width of the stream was four and a half miles. The beginning of the outflow was less than a mile and a half from Pohaku Hanalei. It trespassed slightly upon the Keamoku flow, which started from Kokoolau at an unknown period and moved twenty miles to the Trig, station Keamoku, from 7,800 to 3,300 feet altitude. After the refrigeration of the surface of the lava, the melted material continued to flow under cover for more than six weeks. The angle of descent for the whole distance is six degrees, but occasionally there were steep pitches of twenty-five degrees. Large stones thrown upon the surface did not sink but were rapidly transported downwards and lost to sight. Mounds, ridges and cones were thrown up, from which steam, gases and hot stones were thrown. On March 6th snow was found upon the summit. During this eruption there was no sign of sympathy with it at Kilauea.

From a native newspaper, Ka Hae Hawaii (The Hawaiian Banner), Rev. W. D. Westervelt has made the following translation of an account of the eruption of 1843, m tne Paradise of the Pacific, November, 1908.

The eruption of January 10, 1843, was described by Mr. Coan. In the morning while it was still entirely dark a small flame of Pele fire was seen on the summit of Mauna Loa, on the northeastern shoulder of the mountain. Soon afterward the fire opened another door and the lava rushed down the side directly opposite Mauna Kea. Two 'branches were pouring forth lava, filling the place between the two mountains, covering it with fire like the spreading out of an ocean. One branch went toward the foothills of Hualalai and the other toward Mauna Kea until the flow came to the foot of the mountain, when it divided, one part going toward Waimea and one toward Hilo. Four weeks this eruption continued without cessation. The fires could not come to the sea coast, but filled up the low places of the mountain and spread out all over the different plains. Then it was imprisoned.

Brilliant fires were noted at the summit in May, 1849, after the unusual activity in Kilauea. These lasted for two or three weeks, but there was no evidence of accompanying earthquakes or discharge of lava. Back to Contents

Mokuaweoweo in 1851

There was a small flow on the west side of the summit commencing August 8, 1851. The smoke and fire were visible at Hilo. From Kona the light was gorgeous and glorious. Detonations were heard during the eruption, like the explosion of gases or rending of rocks. According to Professor Brigham, who visited the site in 1864, the starting point was 1,000 feet below the summit or two hundred feet below the floor of the caldera. The stream was ten miles long and less than a mile in width. Most of the lava was pahoehoe, with some aa, and seemed to have cooled rapidly. The course was westward, following very closely an earlier prehistoric flow reaching down to Kealakeakua. The eruption continued but three or four days. Back to Contents

Eruption of 1852

The preceding eruption was really the opening scene of a fine exhibition six months later which started on the north side of the mountain, February i7th. On February 2Oth, the chief flow had shifted to another place about 10,000 feet above the sea level. The escaping lava rose at first in a lofty fountain, and then flowed easterly twenty miles.

I quote quite extensively from Mr. Coan; Amer. Jour. Science, 1852.

"At half past three on the morning of the I7th ultimo, a small beacon light was discovered on the summit of Mauna Loa. At first it appeared like a solitary star resting on the apex of the mountain. In a few moments its light increased and shone like a rising moon. Seamen keeping watch on deck in our port exclaimed:

'What is that? The moon is rising in the West!'

In fifteen minutes the problem was solved. A flood of fire burst out of the mountain and soon began to flow in a brilliant current down its northern slope. It was from the same point, and it flowed in the same line as the great eruption which I visited in March, 1843. In a short time immense columns of burning lava shot up heavenward to the height of three or four hundred feet, flooding the summit of the mountain with light and gilding the firmament with its radiance. Streams of light came pouring down the mountain, flashing through our windows and lighting up our apartments so that we could see to read large print. When we first awoke, so dazzling was the glare on our windows that we supposed some building near us must be on fire; but as the light shone directly upon our couch and into our faces we soon perceived its cause. In two hours the molten stream had rolled,

as we judged, about fifteen miles down the side of the mountain. This eruption was one of terrible activity and surpassing splendor, but it was short. In about twenty-four hours all traces of it seemed to be extinguished.

"At daybreak on the 2Oth of February, we were again startled by a rapid eruption bursting out laterally on the side of the mountain facing Hilo, and about midway from the base to the summit of the mountain. This lateral crater was equally active with the one on the summit, and in a short time we perceived the molten river flowing from its orifice direct towards Hilo. The action became more and more fierce from hour to hour. Floods of lava poured out of the mountain's side, and the glowing river soon reached the woods at the base of the mountain, a distance of twenty miles.

"Clouds of smoke ascended and hung like a vast canopy over the mountain, or rolled off upon the wings of the wind. These clouds assumed various hues murky, blue, white, purple or scarlet as they were more or less illuminated from the fiery abyss below. Sometimes they resembled an inverted burning mountain with its apex pointing to the awful orifice over which it hung. Sometimes the glowing pillar would shoot up vertically for several degrees, and then describing a graceful curve, sweep off horizontally, like the tail of a comet, further than the eye could reach. The sable atmosphere of Hilo assumed a lurid appearance, and the sun's rays fell upon us with a yellow, sickly light. Clouds of smoke careered over the ocean, carrying with them ashes, cinders, charred leaves, etc., which fell in showers upon the decks of ships approaching our coast. The light was seen more than a hundred miles at sea, and at times the purple tinge was so widely diffused as to appear like the whole firmament on fire. Ashes and capillary vitrifactions called Tele's hair' fell thick in our streets and upon the roofs of our houses. And this state of things still continues, for even now (March 5th) while I write, the atmosphere is in the same yellow and dingy condition; every object looks pale, and sickly showers of vitreous filaments are falling around us, and our children are gathering them. "As soon as the second eruption broke out I determined to visit it. Dr. Wetmore agreeing to accompany me, we procured four natives to carry our baggage, one of them, Kekai, acting as guide. On Monday, the 23d of February, we all set off and slept in the outskirts of the great forest which separates Hilo from the mountains. Our track was not the one I took in 1843, namely, the bed of a river; we attempted to penetrate the thicket at another point, our general course bearing southwest."

Without specifying matters relating to the party and circumstances, I quote the text farther on:

"At half past three P. M. I reached the awful crater and stood alone in the light of its fires. It was a moment of unutterable interest. I seemed to be standing in the presence and before the throne of the eternal God, and while all other voices were hushed His alone spoke. I was 10,000 feet above the sea, in a vast solitude untrodden by the foot of man or beast; amidst a silence unbroken by any living voice, and surrounded by scenes of terrific desolation. Here I stood almost blinded by the insufferable brightness; almost deafened with the startling clangor; almost petrified with the awful scene. The heat was so intense that the crater could not be approached within forty or fifty yards on the windward side, and probably not within two miles on the leeward.

The eruption, as before stated, commenced on the very summit of the mountain, but it would seem that the lateral pressure of the embowelled lava was so great as to force itself out at a weaker point in the side of the mountain, at the same time cracking and rending the mountain all the way down from the summit to the place of ejection. The mountain seemed to be siphunculated; the fountain of fusion being elevated some two or three thousand feet above the lateral crater, and being pressed down an inclined subterranean tube, escaped through this valve with a force which threw its burning masses to the height of four or five hundred feet. The eruption first issued from a depression in the mountain, but a rim of scoriae two hundred feet in elevation had already been formed around the orifice in the form of a hollow truncated cone. This cone was about half a mile in circumference at its base, and the orifice at the top may be three hundred feet in diameter. I approached as near as I could bear the heat, and stood amidst the ashes, cinders, scoriae, slag and pumice, which were scattered wide and wildly around. From the horrid throat of this cone vast and continuous jets of red-hot and sometimes white-hot lava were being ejected with a noise that was almost deafening, and a force which threatened to rend the rocky ribs of the mountain and to shiver its adamantine pillars. At times the sound seemed subterranean, deep and infernal. First, a rumbling, a muttering, a hissing or deep premonitory surging; then followed an awful explosion, like the roar of broadsides in a naval battle, or the quick discharge of pack after pack of artillery on the field of carnage. Sometimes the sound resembled that of 10,000 furnaces in full blast. Again it was like the rattling of a regiment of musketry; sometimes it was like the roar of the ocean along a rock-bound shore; and sometimes like the booming of distant thunder. The detonations were heard along the shores of Hilo. The eruptions were not intermittent, but continuous. Volumes of the fusion were constantly ascending and descending like a jet d'eau. The force which expelled these igneous columns from the orifice shivered them into millions of fragments of unequal size, some of which would be rising, some falling, some shooting off laterally, others describing graceful curves; some moving in tangents, and some falling back in vertical lines into the mouth of the crater. Every particle shone with the brilliancy of Sirius, and all kinds of geometrical figures were being formed and broken up. No tongue, no pen, no pencil can portray the beauty, the grandeur, the terrible sublimity of the scene. To be appreciated it must be felt.

During the night the scene surpassed all power of description. Vast columns of lava at a white heat shot up continuously in the ever varying forms of pillars, pyramids, cones, towers, turrets, spires, minarets, etc., while the descending showers poured in one incessant cataract of fire upon the rim of the crater down its burning throat and over the surrounding area; each falling avalanche containing matter enough to sink the proudest ship. A large fissure opening through the lower rim of the crater gave vent to the molten flood which constantly poured out of the orifice, and rolled down the mountain in a deep, broad river, at the rate probably of ten miles an hour. This fiery stream we could trace all the way down the mountain until it was hidden from the eye by its windings in the forest, a distance of some thirty miles. The stream shone with great brilliancy in the night, and a long horizontal drapery of light hung over its whole course. But the great furnace on the mountain was the all absorbing object."

May 6. "The great furnace on the mountain is still in terrible blast. No decrease of activity, but rather an increase."

In July Mr. Coan again visited the flow. The fires had ceased. A kind of pumice was very plentiful, beginning ten miles from the cone. It grew more and more abundant till the source of the flow was reached where it covered everything to the depth of five to ten feet.

Messrs. H. Kinney and Fuller visited the source of this flow in March.

Mr. Kinney described jets rising, from four hundred to eight hundred feet and represented the existence of a deep unearthly, roar, comparable to that of Niagara, heard a long distance away. The heat also created terrific whirlwinds. The two gentlemen agreed that the diameter of the crater from which the fountain rose was about 1,000 feet; the height of the crater from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet; height of the fountain two hundred to seven hundred feet, rarely below three hundred; and the diameter of the fountain from two hundred to three hundred feet. The jet sometimes became a Gothic spire of two hundred feet, then after subsiding stood at three hundred feet with points comparable to architectural ornaments. Rev. D. B. Lyman of Hilo confirmed these estimates. The lava streams sometimes seem to have been two hundred to three hundred feet thick.

Rev. E. P. Baker of Hilo visited the scene of this overflow in 1889 and found a single red cone in the midst of much pumice. There seemed to have been only one outlet. The lower part of the stream consisted of aa changing to pahoehoe higher up. Back to Contents

The Eruption of 1852, described in verse by Titus Coan, and published in the Friend

Hark ! hark ! while yet 'tis dark

There's a deep, rumbling sound,

As of spirits underground,

Rolling rocks for melting,

Gathering ore for smelting.

Hark! while night is still dark

In earth's hidden caves,

Theres' a noise as of waves

Muttering, sputtering,

Splashing dashing,

Like the sound of the surf,

Like hoof on the turf.

A shake and a shiver,

A quake and a quiver.

Hush! Hush!

For a moment all is still

On yon dark and distant hill.

Nature stands all awed and silent,

While stern Pluto lifts his trident,

Seated on a sulphur throne.

To us mortals all unknown

In the distant realms of wonder

Vulcan forges bolts of thunder.

Squadrons Sables

There's a break and a roar,

Like the wave on the shore,

Like the crash of dread thunder

Rending earth asunder

Like the fiat of God,

Shaking Earth with His nod

Like the breath of His ire

Setting Heaven on fire;

Like the roaring on high

When His chariots draw nigh;

Like the trump's direful blast

When Time' cycles are past.

Smoke, fire, sulphur, nitre,

Glaring brighter and still brighter.

Bang, bang, bang! clang, clang, clang!

Harsh, heavy, shrill,

O'er mountain, dell and hill,

Heaven's high artillery rang.

Flaming meteors dance around;

Burning whirlwinds sweep the ground: A fiery hail from clouds above

Is scattered wide o'er mountain wide.

See ! see !

Dread Typhoeus' forge is sevenfold blast,

And lasting hills dissolving fast.

The glowing furnace fiercer glows;

The blood red river, hotter flows;

Rocks rend, roar, melt and disappear,

Mingling in wild and mad career.

Clouds gather, infold, gyrate, brighten,

Thicken, darken, thunder, lighten,

Sigh the winds, and howl and rave,

Driving hot cinders o'er wildwood and wave.

From morn till night, pale yellow light

Below; on high, shrouds earth and sky.

Dark forests blaze in the flame's red rays,

Then vanish from sight, like a specter of night.

Upon the fiery tempest's breath,

Desolation rolls on death.

Ah, Pele, dread Goddess of Fire,

Why flash thine eyes with kindling ire?

Why stir afresh thy everglowing coals,

While from thy throat this burning river rolls?

Why wreathe thy mythic head in smoke and flame?

And startle mortals with thy fearful name?

Why rend thy hoary locks and scatter thy silver hair?

Why sound thine awful trumpet forth

Upon the midnight air?

But, hush once more; the scene is o'er;

For twice ten days the fountain plays;

Then all is still; o'er dell and hill:

The whirlwind's sweep is lulled to sleep

Hell's burning breath is quenched in death,

From murky cloud the thunder loud

Has ceased to roar on mount and shore,

The awful blast has hurried past,

The fiery flood obeyed its God;

"Thus far," He said, "and here he stayed." Back to Contents

Eruption of March, 1852, by J. Fuller in the Friend, May, 1852

On reaching the seat of activity, he writes thus: "Imagine yourself, then, just ascended to the top of the above mentioned eminence. Before you at a distance of two miles, rises the new formed crater in the midst of fields of black, smoking lava, while from its centre there jets a column of red hot lava to an immense height, threatening instant annihilation to any presumptuous mortal who shall come within the reach of its scathing influence. The crater may be 1,000 feet in diameter and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high. The column of liquid lava which is constantly sustained in the air, is from two hundred to five hundred feet high, and perhaps the highest jets may reach as high as seven hundred feet ! There is a constant and rapid succession of jets one within another, the masses falling outside and cooling as they fall, form a sort of dark veil, through which the new jets darting up with every degree of force and every variety of form render this grand fire fountain one of the most magnificent objects that human imagination can conceive of."

The finer products, ashes and pumice, fall in constant showers for some miles around the vent. Besides several craters formed from earlier eruptions there is a small one still steaming, which seems to have been the first outbreak. Below it are several fountains constantly pouring out an immense quantity of molten lava, which flows in a glowing stream down the mountain slope. This flow came within seven miles of Hilo, says the Editor. Back to Contents

Eruption of 1855

This commenced August 11th and continued for sixteen months. The amount of lava ejected was the greatest of any of the flows seen by modern observers. The only witnesses of the scene on record were Titus Coan, S. E. Bishop and F. A. Weld. It started from a point 12,000 feet high and nearer the summit than the preceding flow. The first thing seen was a small point of light much like Sirius; it threw off coruscations of light and soon resembled a full orbed sun. As the stream continued to flow directly towards Hilo, the inhabitants grew more and more anxious and made frequent trips to determine its progress. Mr. Coan went up early in October. In three days he reached the place where it was three miles wide. Usually it was broader, sometimes reaching a width of eight miles.

"Early on Saturday the 6th," he says, "we were ascending our rugged pathway amidst steam, smoke and heat which almost blinded and scathed us. At ten we came to open orifices down which we looked into the fiery river which rushed furiously beneath our feet. We had seen in the night many lights like street lamps, glowing along the slope of the mountain at considerable distances from each other, while the stream made its way in a subterranean channel, traced only by these vents. From 10 A. M. and onward these fiery vents were frequent, some of them measuring ten, twenty, fifty or one hundred feet in diameter. In one place only, we saw the river uncovered for thirty rods and making down a declivity of from ten to twenty-five degrees. The scene was awful, the momentum incredible, the fusion perfect (a white heat), and the velocity forty miles an hour. The banks on each side of the stream were red-hot, jagged and overhanging, adorned with burning stalactites and festooned with immense quantities of filamentose or capillary glass, called Pele's hair. From this point to the summit crater all was inexpressibly interesting. Valve after valve opened as we went up, out of which issued fire, smoke and brimstone, and down which we looked as into the caverns of Pluto. The gases were so pungent that we had to use the greatest caution, approaching a stream or an orificeon the windward side, and watching every change or gyration of the breeze. Sometimes whirlwinds would sweep along, loaded with deadly gases and threatening the unwary traveller. After a hot and weary struggle over smoking masses of jagged scoriae and slag, thrown in wild confusion into hills, cones and ridges, and spread out over vast fields, we came at one P. M. to the terminal or summit crater (not Mokuaweoweo) .

"This we found to be a low elongated cone, or rather a series of cones, standing over a great fissure in the mountain. Mounting to the crest of